|
Tractor Talk Discussion Board |
Re: Wheel fell off
[ View Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ Return to Forum ]
Posted by Dennis Benson on December 09, 2002 at 13:56:13 from (205.188.209.109):
In Reply to: Wheel fell off posted by Kerry Florence on December 09, 2002 at 10:54:56:
You might have sheared off a cotter key. Do you have the threads on the end of the spindle? Check and see if the castle nut that is under the little hub cap in the center of the hub is still there, or of it is still on the threads on the spindle. It's probably still in the hub, and there will be a broken cotter key in the castle nut, and parts of the cotter key should be in the spindle. The nut will unscrew if there was no cotter key in the castle nut. If the tractor didn't fall far there is a better chance that it might not be serious. If you have power down you can raise the front of the tractor using the loader. Check the threads of the spindle by screwing the castle nut on the threads to check of the threads are good. Take the hub cap off in the center of the hub. Remove the outer wheel bearing, it should be setting in there, filled with grease. The inner wheel bearing which is larger, can be either left on the spindle, along with the seal, or it can be in the hub, and the seal still in place. The seal is steel with a rubber lip around the inside. If the inner bearing is still in the hub, lay that side down and take something that you can push through the small end of the hub against the inside race, the part that would rest against the spindle (if you put it against the cage, the steel part you can see on the outer wheel bearing that holds the rollers against the race, you may bend tha cage, that will be bad) you can use a piece of something like a 1/2 water pipe, a piece of wood, or a large punch, and using a hammer, drive the bearing and seal out. Now you will want to clean the bearings and get the old grease out from between the rollers and under the cage, and see if the rollers look pitted, and wipe off the grease from the spindle, fit them over the spindle to see if the spindle is worn, they should slip over the place where they are supposed to seat, but shouldn't twist. Wipe the grease out from the inside of the hub, and check the races that are pressed into the hub, they have a taper, see if they are pitted. If everything is ok now you will need to repack the wheel bearings. They have a plastic tool for this that works real good that you can get from almost any parts store, it has a grease fitting on it so you can pump the bearings full with your grease gun. You will need a new seal, the part you knocked out with the inside bearing, wipe a handfull of wheel bearing grease around the inside of the hub, and on the races inside the hub, set the inside bearing in it's race with the angle of the rollers matching the angle of the race, so the taper is smaller toward the inside of the hub. Set the seal over the bearing and use a piece of wood over the seal and drive it into the hole so that it looks like the one you drove out. Put the wheel and hub assembly over the spindle into place, and put the outer wheel bearing into the space so that the taper of the rollers matches the taper of the race pressed into the hub, the small diameter of the taper will be toward the center of the hub. There should be a flat washer with a tab on the inside that will fit into a groove in the spindle. Screw the castle nut onto the threads, and tighten while turning the wheel forward until snug, about 12 foot pounds, and loosen until you can put a new cotter key through the space in the castle nut into through the hole in the end of the spindle. Bend the ends of the cotter key so they won't touch the hub, bearings, or hub cap. Tap the hub cap back into place
Follow Ups:
Home
| Forums
Today's Featured Article -
Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
... [Read Article]
Latest Ad:
Oliver 550 Diesel runs like a watch three point hitch pto engine gone threw about two hundred hours ago nice clean tractor
[More Ads]
Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V. Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor HeadquartersWebsite Accessibility Policy |
|
