Posted by JD Seller on March 27, 2016 at 10:18:49 from (208.126.198.123):
I challenge the fellows that say that they can make their gas New generation JD tractors run GREAT on the gas we have today, MAKE A 1962 JD 4010 gas run right!!!!!
I owned a JD 4010 gas for 26 years. It was used on my feeder wagon the last twenty of that. It ran fine until the oxygenated fuels came out in the early to mid 1990s. After that you had to fool with it all of the time to make it run right. The biggest trouble I had was it would not take throttle unless you had it pretty rich. Then you would have to replace fouled spark plugs every few weeks. Also in warm weather you did not dare shut it off if you wanted to start it in the next half an hour. You could run the battery flat and it would not start at times. The next time it would hit the first roll over. You never knew when it would throw a fit and not start. This tractor got ran over 1000 hours each year at the end. So lower used "show" tractors really do not compare.
In 2005 I decided I was going to "FIX" the problem. I was betting that the motor was just a little to low in compression for the modern fuels. The tractor had 9500 hours and was all original. SO here is a list of what I did to the tractor. It still would not take throttle right after all the work I did to it. I even took it to a fellow that many think is a genus on old JD gas motors. HE is darn good too. He could not get it going either. We both surrendered. LOL
Here is the repair list:
1) The motor had a complete out of frame overhaul. New sleeves and pistons(OEM parts). New cam, as the old one showed some wear on the lobes. Head completely rebuilt(new valves, guides, and seats. All Surfaces planed), Crankshaft was good for going back with standard bearings. Replaced the intake manifold as it was not flat and would not machine flat an have enough thickness in the mounting ears area.
2) The aluminum Marvel-Shebler carb was rebuilt by me first and then sent away to a fellow in PA that had a good reputation on making them run right.(he is dead now). When it did not run right I bought a NEW Zenith carburetor.
3) Replaced the electronic ignition with a new one even though the old one was not two years old. This included a new coil that was from the electronic ignition manufacture. Rebuilt the distributor complete(new shaft bushings, advance springs) New distributor cab and rotor, New solid copper spark plug wires. Several different brands and heat ranges of new spark plugs.
4) When I assembles the engine I adjusted the vales cold and then hot. I double check them with a degree wheel like we did the pulling tractors. Set distributor timing with timing light and then later had a fellow set it with an computer that actually could measure the timing and spark duration. He really could find nothing much on the non computer controlled ignition. We still tried it.
5) Totally rebuilt the governor to make sure it was responding correctly and not jerking the carburetor open wrong.
6) After it still did not run right I tore the motor back down and bought an after market set of pistons that raised the compression. That did seem to cure the hot starting issue but it still would not take throttle correctly.
7) Even thought I had checked voltage at the distributor and coil I replaced the engine harness to make sure I was not getting a heat resistance change in the old wiring.
After all of this the tractor still would not take throttle unless you had the fuel mixture a little rich. If you leaned it out the motor would stumble when the governor opened up. If you increased the load by turning the feeder wagon on it would stumble and almost die unless you choked it or turned the load jet out. With the load jet set to where it would run mostly right, spark plugs would only last a few weeks. I got to keeping a set of new ones in the tractor tool box.
I tried every brand and grade of gas the local stations keep on hand. That was E-10, Premium that was supposed to contain no Ethanol, this was 85 to 95 octane rated fuels. I even tried some E-85 ( had to drain it out as it would not even start on that). The reason I blame the new fuel mixes is I could make it run like new on AV gas. I had 200 gallon delivered and the tractor ran great for two months. It would even run at 95% right on racing "blue" gas. When I would switch back to "regular" gas the plugs would last maybe 15-20 hours.
So tell me what would "FIX" this tractor. Even thought I sold it the fellow that bought it is local and I can buy it back. He only runs it in parades and tractor rides. He found out the hard way that if he is going on a tractor ride to install NEW spark plugs and carry a set with him at all times. He had to be towed in the WMT tractor ride trying to run plugs that where 20-30 hours old.
I tried everything I could think of on this tractor. I spent WAY more money than the tractor was worth just to try and "win" the challenge of making it run right. It is not just this one tractor either. At the same time I was working on mine there where three other local farmers trying to get their JD new generation gas tractors to run correctly. All are cattle feeder guys that wanted to have cold weather starting tractors on remote farms. A list of these tractors: 1968 JD 4020 gas, 1962 JD 3010, 1972 JD 3020, and a 1971 JD 4020. Forgot my 1962 JD 4010. There where a total of 11 different mechanics that worked on all of these tractors. All of them would run on AV gas. None would run right on regular gas. All of us replaced the tractors with diesel tractors.
Now we are talking about NEW generation JD gas motors. Not IH, Ford, AC and etc. gas motors. I can make a IH 656 gas purr like a kitten. So I don't want to hear about how your Ford 8n has been perfect for the last 40 years. LOL Not the brand/type we are having issues with. Even the JD smaller gas tractors seemed to run better than the larger ones. The JD 1010 and 1020s being examples. I had a JD 1010 that I owned for 15 years. I bet that it did not have 3-4 sets of plugs in it over the entire time I owned it.
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