The little time it takes to remove the grill and radiator support will pay big dividends. I would replace all the freeze plugs those are know to leak and a bear to replace when the engine is in the frame. I also would replace the crank sensor with a OEM while their, the valve cover gasket and the o-rings that may be at the oil filter adapter. Engine mounts also settle over time so new mounts would be considered.
Those start head bolts are not that bad to get at you may have to lower the rear of the trans to access them. You can use a regular hex head bolt when you go back.
With the grill and radiator out they slip right in :wink: Chrysler has a paper tab that fits over the crank sensor so as not to damage it wile installing it you may look into that though not necessary its just a precaution.
One more thing I do on most all of them is cut the frame to access the drain on the AC evaporator then add a hose so the condensed water runs out on the ground instead of down the frame Chanel. It ends the dreaded wet floors on the passages side. (if you have that issue if you keep it long enoufh you will) I know this applies to the 90's models not sure about a 01.
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Today's Featured Article - My Ford Golden Jubilee - by Troy Estes. This article is about my '53 Ford Jubilee and a story that starts with taking the tractor to my brother's Starter/Alternator Rebuilding shop for a wiring fix. The generator was shot as well as all the wiring. I dropped off the tractor expecting a transformation from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system utilizing the original generator housing, and a total rewiring of the whole tractor. The front end center pin bushing was worn also so I ask that they replace it if they had time. Well, that’s wha
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