Jeep salvage engine arrived - Tractor related too

Bonehead move - posted this in wrong forum. Think I have it right now.

Anyways, thought I would post a couple pics of the unload and the temporary engine stand/hoist... figured a few of you may get a laugh at my methods.
But got the boom for $50 a while back - figured I couldn't pass it up. Was first use... already paid for itself.

I posted a few days ago (May 10) regarding the used engine swap. Thanks for all the replies. Basically, my 01 Cherokee engine is finally about to throw something through the block at 294k. Time is not there right now to rebuild, so going the salvage route. Found one with 88k on it. Going to do some minor updating/maintenance on it anyways.

Now to get that engine ready to drop in. last time i did something like this was on my 76 Vega when I was 16... probably a few more parts to worry about now!

pretty cool lift.

Good luck with the swap. Not sure about the newer ones - but I seem to recall there are a couple of bolts on the top of the trans housing that are a real bear to get to. Star bolts to boot which can limit how creative you get, unless they've changed that design.

No doubt it's a big effort, but really pretty straight forward, things generally connect only one way.

Good to see somebody doing it on their own. I admire the effort.

Nice engine mover, wish I had it.

If it has been awhile since changing a motor be prepared for bolts in inaccessible places and some frustration. Last motor I changed was a 4.0 in a Explorer and it was not fun. Had to heat the manifold bolts to get them loose

Good luck

Getting to bolts that hold engine to tranny:

I pull carpet back, and holesaw the floor hump for access.

I, do not consider my vehicles museum quality, though. Patches work fine.

D.

That it a really interesting loader tractor in the upper photo. Can you tell us more about it?

The little time it takes to remove the grill and radiator support will pay big dividends. I would replace all the freeze plugs those are know to leak and a bear to replace when the engine is in the frame. I also would replace the crank sensor with a OEM while their, the valve cover gasket and the o-rings that may be at the oil filter adapter. Engine mounts also settle over time so new mounts would be considered.

Those start head bolts are not that bad to get at you may have to lower the rear of the trans to access them. You can use a regular hex head bolt when you go back.

With the grill and radiator out they slip right in :wink: Chrysler has a paper tab that fits over the crank sensor so as not to damage it wile installing it you may look into that though not necessary its just a precaution.

One more thing I do on most all of them is cut the frame to access the drain on the AC evaporator then add a hose so the condensed water runs out on the ground instead of down the frame Chanel. It ends the dreaded wet floors on the passages side. (if you have that issue if you keep it long enoufh you will) I know this applies to the 90's models not sure about a 01.

Good info - Thanks!
Have not had a problem with the ac evaporator outlet in the 10 or so years I've had this girl. Was thinking about the freeze plugs as I put a new head on it about 150k ago - the rear freeze plug went out and since I had to pull the head anyways and a buddy had a deal on one...
Had not figured on the crank sensor, but definitely will. The other items I had figured to do as they either leaked on the original or needed it.
Was originally thinking of replacing the heater core while the engine was out but see no way other than under the dash. With the A/C and the airbags, I think I'll leave it alone unless you have a good trick.

Thanks

Tony

Dave...

Its a 63 Ford 4000 HD Industrial. It has the Elenco 4wd front end on it too.

Pretty sure it lived a well used life before I got it. I'm slowly fixing/painting/reworking it as I get time. It was next on the list for repairs until the Jeep moved up the list...

Tony

(reply to post at 05:37:40 05/15/13)

Click to expand...

Going to make this short its time to wash my a$$.

I think I remove the mounts on the block when removing and leave them off when installing the engine then bolt them up. This gives you a straight line shot at lining every thing up. Its also possible to unbolt the mount from the frame and leave all intact on the engine. The steering shaft needs to be removed but no big deal.

I am not sure of the trans used but its possible the flywheel may not match the balance of the converter BTDT on a Ram1500. Their may be two styles one the convert has the weight and the other the flywheel has the weight.

Check (look good)it if theirs no weight on either flywheel you will be good to go with either.

The block to tranny bolts are inverted torx, not 8 or 12 point, not standard or metric, but a special head that I have never seen used anywhere else. I like using a long extension and swivel to reach over the top of the tranny/T-case .

Lots of 13mm head bolts, enjoy

Tommy