Recommend you get a manual which describes the steps to remove and replace the head. It is not necessary to clean carbon off the top of the pistons but it is important that the top of the block and the matching surface of the head are clean. While you are scraping the top of the block you can keep a vaccum cleaner running working one hand with the vaccum and the other with the scraper so loose material is all sucked up. When done vaccum out each cylinder. Some guys will stuff a rag in the cylinder to keep chips out but either way use the vaccum.
Are you going to get the head checked for cracks. That is usually the machine shop unless you have the equipment. Also need to check that both the block and head have a straight flat suface, not warped.
I usually make a pair of alignment studs by cutting off the tops of a couple of old (straight) bolts. Screw them loose into the block, put on the gasket and carefully lower the head down over the studs. This keeps the new gasket from slipping out of position and everything lined up. Start a couple of head bolts and remove the studs.
The engine can be in any position when you replace the head, may actually be best that you leave it as it was when you removed the head. When you bolt the rocker assembly back on the valve clearance should be pretty near where it was when you took the head off but to be safe you can back off the adjusters a little, then turn the engine slowly by hand and readjust each cylinder at the top of the compression stroke.
Usually you will torque the head once when it is cold and a second time after it has warmed up. Use a accurate torque wrench.
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Today's Featured Article - Gatherin of the Orange - by Rick Nikolich. In July of 1998 I was talking to fellow Allis Chalmers collector Mike Schilling about the annual "Gathering of The Orange" AC show coming up in August of 1999. He got this wild idea that we should get a convoy of AC tractors and drive them from Charlotte, Michigan 105 miles to LaGrange, Indiana.
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