I have the head off the MD, now what?

I got the head off the MD and ordered the head gasket this morning. Somehow he found a head gasket for $55. I was pleasently suprised when he called me back with that info. When I looked at C&Gs and Messicks website they listed it for $185, but $160 if you bought the head removal kit. Weird.
Anyhow, when I talked to Lawrence at Farm Country he mentioned scraping off the carbon before reinstall. Which carbon would that be? It doesn't look all that bad??? There is a decent amount above the piston where the rings don't travel, but the head is okish. How do you go about doing that (without wrecking stuff)
Is there something else I should do when I have the head off?
How do I reinstall the rack? Should the engine be in a certain position? Is it easier to put it in a certain position while the head is off? Do I adjust the valves right away, run it and adjust again?

Recommend you get a manual which describes the steps to
remove and replace the head. It is not necessary to clean carbon
off the top of the pistons but it is important that the top of the
block and the matching surface of the head are clean. While you
are scraping the top of the block you can keep a vaccum cleaner
running working one hand with the vaccum and the other with
the scraper so loose material is all sucked up. When done
vaccum out each cylinder. Some guys will stuff a rag in the
cylinder to keep chips out but either way use the vaccum.

Are you going to get the head checked for cracks. That is
usually the machine shop unless you have the equipment. Also
need to check that both the block and head have a straight flat
suface, not warped.

I usually make a pair of alignment studs by cutting off the tops
of a couple of old (straight) bolts. Screw them loose into the
block, put on the gasket and carefully lower the head down over
the studs. This keeps the new gasket from slipping out of
position and everything lined up. Start a couple of head bolts
and remove the studs.

The engine can be in any position when you replace the head,
may actually be best that you leave it as it was when you
removed the head. When you bolt the rocker assembly back on
the valve clearance should be pretty near where it was when you
took the head off but to be safe you can back off the adjusters
a little, then turn the engine slowly by hand and readjust each
cylinder at the top of the compression stroke.

Usually you will torque the head once when it is cold and a
second time after it has warmed up. Use a accurate torque
wrench.

Recommend you get a manual which describes the steps to
remove and replace the head. It is not necessary to clean carbon
off the top of the pistons but it is important that the top of the
block and the matching surface of the head are clean. While you
are scraping the top of the block you can keep a vaccum cleaner
running working one hand with the vaccum and the other with
the scraper so loose material is all sucked up. When done
vaccum out each cylinder. Some guys will stuff a rag in the
cylinder to keep chips out but either way use the vaccum.

Are you going to get the head checked for cracks. That is
usually the machine shop unless you have the equipment. Also
need to check that both the block and head have a straight flat
suface, not warped.

I usually make a pair of alignment studs by cutting off the tops
of a couple of old (straight) bolts. Screw them loose into the
block, put on the gasket and carefully lower the head down over
the studs. This keeps the new gasket from slipping out of
position and everything lined up. Start a couple of head bolts
and remove the studs.

The engine can be in any position when you replace the head,
may actually be best that you leave it as it was when you
removed the head. When you bolt the rocker assembly back on
the valve clearance should be pretty near where it was when you
took the head off but to be safe you can back off the adjusters
a little, then turn the engine slowly by hand and readjust each
cylinder at the top of the compression stroke.

Usually you will torque the head once when it is cold and a
second time after it has warmed up. Use a accurate torque
wrench.

Don't worry, I've got the IH and I&T manuals. I am not planning on milling the head or the block so I guess I will have to take what I get.

What do you use to clean the carbon off the head side? I see somebody started a thread about cleaning the gasket and deck side. Does brakeclean work for the head, too? Any scrubbing or just spray it on the head?

Scotch Brite Non woven Surface Conditioning Disks are the descriptors needed on google. They come in Rolock, or hook and loop attachment to the arbor for a drill or angle grinder. this product works better than it has a rite to.. it is easy to use and is gentile enough to make it safe for cast iron. A cup wire brush can be used to get into deep recesses (not too many on the Diesel head Jim

(quoted from post at 13:43:17 03/16/11) Scotch Brite Non woven Surface Conditioning Disks are the descriptors needed on google. They come in Rolock, or hook and loop attachment to the arbor for a drill or angle grinder. this product works better than it has a rite to.. it is easy to use and is gentile enough to make it safe for cast iron. A cup wire brush can be used to get into deep recesses (not too many on the Diesel head Jim

Click to expand...

No worries about using it even if I am not going to take stuff apart? ie just a new head gasket no pulling pistons or taking head in.

No worries. I would place the pistons down a bit in the cylinders (maybe as much as 1/2 way) and put Vaseline around each piston top like a caulking bead with a finger trowel curve to it. Then when done, I would use a flex blade putty knife to lift the Vaseline out with any dirt or grit. Then cleaning it up with clean rags wiping away from the edges to keep it nice. The 3M wheels are great. Jim

(quoted from post at 14:49:03 03/16/11)

(quoted from post at 13:43:17 03/16/11) Scotch Brite Non woven Surface Conditioning Disks are the descriptors needed on google. They come in Rolock, or hook and loop attachment to the arbor for a drill or angle grinder. this product works better than it has a rite to.. it is easy to use and is gentile enough to make it safe for cast iron. A cup wire brush can be used to get into deep recesses (not too many on the Diesel head Jim

Click to expand...

No worries about using it even if I am not going to take stuff apart? ie just a new head gasket no pulling pistons or taking head in.

Click to expand...

Not really. If valves are closed just knock the stuff off and blow it away. Pack all the open ports of course. FWIW, loose bits of carbon generally do no harm.

To me, pulling it without having it crack checked is a serious f up.

LaBoyteaux, these blocks are all studded.

(quoted from post at 16:21:01 03/16/11)

(quoted from post at 14:49:03 03/16/11)

(quoted from post at 13:43:17 03/16/11) Scotch Brite Non woven Surface Conditioning Disks are the descriptors needed on google. They come in Rolock, or hook and loop attachment to the arbor for a drill or angle grinder. this product works better than it has a rite to.. it is easy to use and is gentile enough to make it safe for cast iron. A cup wire brush can be used to get into deep recesses (not too many on the Diesel head Jim

Click to expand...

No worries about using it even if I am not going to take stuff apart? ie just a new head gasket no pulling pistons or taking head in.

Click to expand...

Not really. If valves are closed just knock the stuff off and blow it away. Pack all the open ports of course. FWIW, loose bits of carbon generally do no harm.

To me, pulling it without having it crack checked is a serious f up.

LaBoyteaux, these blocks are all studded.

Click to expand...

Idk, it ran fine so why worry about it? I suppose that could be why it leaked on the RF corner, but I doubt it. That seems to be a pretty common spot. How much does it cost to do that? Wouldn't/shouldn't I just grind the valves and do all that crap if I get it tested? How much is that going to cost?

If it ran fine, I would not get into the head work.
If you know where it leaked exactly, use a very good straightedge to see if there is a low spot on either the head or the block. If so, I would cut a piece of tag board (file folder) just the size of the leaking area and glue it to the low spot with #2 non hardening Permatex on both sides of the paper then put the head gasket on as usual. This should make a good seal in that leak prone location. Mine leaked there! Jim

Since you told me I am rtarded I called the machine shop to get it in. I should have done it Monday. It looks like they are out past next weekend!?! That sucks. I was hoping to have the ENTIRE project wrapped up by then.
On the up side it would be $40 to pressure test, $40 to resurface and $60 to do the valves. I suppose that is probably worth it. I thought it would be 3 times that much.

Make sure the valves are not pocketed into the head. Just doing the head can allow the chamber volume to be reduced enough that starting and running compression is compromized. There is very specific valve height that is needed for operation. quite often the seat will need to be replaced if the height cannot be maintained. New valves are also possible expenses toward this fundamental element of performance. I hav owned an MD, and A TD20, both had that issue and cost substantially more to complete the head work. Jim

See? The cost isn't that bad. That's why the inspection. It gives peace of mind about the direction you take.

Also a goon mention on the valve recession problem. After too many cuts they tend to get too deep. The machine shop isn't expert on these old heads anymore and they don't know what is too much. I will say that with good rings they will do okay anyways, but it doesn't help.

That right front corner is a problem for sure. As I've said before, mine only seeps oil when cold and oil is too heavy, but it did seep. Hasn't lately.

BTW, excellent score on the head gasket. Somebody is looking out for you.

What year was the TD20? A 200 or a 201?

The shop actually mentioned having to recess the valves already. I have a feeling this $175 job is going to turn into a $500 job before this thing is done...