Posted by Brian Jasper co. Ia on March 02, 2011 at 17:53:44 from (72.171.0.144):
In Reply to: f150 plugs posted by cjmal on March 01, 2011 at 17:19:18:
As a Ford dealer tech, I'll weigh in here. I don't change plugs on a hot engine, tends to burn fingers mostly. On the 3 valve engines, I use my 3/8 impact to remove. Had another tech tell me that and haven't broken one off since. If you do break one off, Lisle Tools makes an excellent extractor. Always put the 2 valve plugs in with a torque wrench. Don't put antiseize or anything else on them. There aren't many threads down there, lubrication increases the stress on the threads. The plugs already have a nickel coating on the threads for corrosion protection. I have yet to run across a reason to pull the head for any sort of spark plug issue. The 3 valve extractor works very well, and the Time-Sert threading kit all Ford dealers are supposed to have works well too. Use Motorcraft plugs in them. Champions are a waste of money in my opinion. With the marginal threads in the 2V engines, why would you risk using a "will fit" vs an "engineered for that exact application" part?
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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