f150 plugs

how much of a job is it to change plugs on a 4.6 triton on a f150

What year... older units have plug wires, newer are COP, requiring each individual coil to be removed.

Use genuine Motorcraft plugs and CAREFULLY torque them to "spec".

If it is 05 or newer, 3 valve head I would take it to Ford. Then get them to price the job first. The plugs are a $$$$$ to get out.

close to $400

Torque to spec with anti-seize with the head stone COLD. Use those exotic ultra long life plugs gapped 10 thou closer than factory spec for extra life.
The other option is to drive until miss-fire occurs. Or trade the truck.
Get the work done at dealership so when the threads strip you have some coverage.

Big job. Careful. If you do not absolutely torque the new plugs in correctly, the engine will spit out the new plugs with the threads. Then you are into big trouble. I would not let a shade-tree mechanic touch it. I have a 1997 F-150 Triton 4.6 V8. Tom

Normally I would never even consider going to a dealer for a plug change, but when I need plugs in my '06 F-150 with the 4.6, that's where I'm going. Too many horror stories about breaking off the plug and having to pull the head to make it worthwhile doing it myself. If your truck is later than about '04 you don't have to worry too much about the engine spitting out the plugs like the early 4.6 did, but it's still not a job to do yourself, unfortunately.

Tom, I have the same truck you have except mine's a '98 with 90k miles. It's been running ok, but I've been dreading the time I'll need to change them.

I have the common problem of the carbon buildup in the intake that I'll have to address one of these days. But I've heard that it's not that hard a fix.

At what miles did you change out your plugs?

Best thing I've found for carbon buildup is Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner. Get at your Dodge/Chrysler dealer. Comes in a spray can.

I wish it were that simple, but I've heard that you have to physically take the part off and scrape the carbon out of a small orifice close to the EGR valve.

My friend took his in to Ford dealer to change. $2800 later they said they still had to pull the engine. He ended up just walking away from it.They gave him trade in value of the truck as it was when he drove it in there, on a new Expedition

Don't even try to remove them from a hot or warm engine which is why the threads tend to grab. Let it sit overnight. Park it, pull the coil packs, blow out any grit and stuff from the chambers, and fill the chambers with wd40 to soak overnight. Loosen like using a tap. Break, turn back, break some more, turn back, and so on till out. Even the dealers (the smart ones) like to have them overnight but they still drive them into the bay heating them up a little again. Or else they leave in the bay overnight. Check the coil pack rubbers for any stretching especially if you had to pull hard to get them out. They are about the same price as the plugs. Give them a little twisting when taking them off or putting on. A little dielectric grease on the rubbers may help get them off the next time. Antiseize on the plugs of course. Definitely use a torque wrench to put on to right torque or don't do it. You will probably need a swivel with a couple extensions. You will need a good spark plug socket and extension that will pull the plug out without leaving it or the extension pulling out from the socket.

I'm getting ready to do my 5.4L 2000 f150.

As a Ford dealer tech, I'll weigh in here. I don't change plugs on a hot engine, tends to burn fingers mostly. On the 3 valve engines, I use my 3/8 impact to remove. Had another tech tell me that and haven't broken one off since. If you do break one off, Lisle Tools makes an excellent extractor. Always put the 2 valve plugs in with a torque wrench. Don't put antiseize or anything else on them. There aren't many threads down there, lubrication increases the stress on the threads. The plugs already have a nickel coating on the threads for corrosion protection. I have yet to run across a reason to pull the head for any sort of spark plug issue. The 3 valve extractor works very well, and the Time-Sert threading kit all Ford dealers are supposed to have works well too. Use Motorcraft plugs in them. Champions are a waste of money in my opinion. With the marginal threads in the 2V engines, why would you risk using a "will fit" vs an "engineered for that exact application" part?

I have read every post on this I could find,,, Lucky for me i have never broke one but my days a coming... I run top engine cleaner thru the engine with a BG tool,,, let it set till it cools down,,, crack all the plugs 1/2 to 1 turn,,, add a little seafoam down each plug hole let them soak overnight... Next day blow out the seafoam,,, get my best 3/8 air ratchet and give'em ell...

I start talking this up at 30K,,, if they don't bite by 40K I start raising my price big time,,, by then I could care less for the trouble that may accrue... Never had to remove a broke plug but have the tools to get'er done if need B,,, I have the lisle tool, by what I have read it is as good are better than the Ford tool...
The price keeps coming down for the tool as it always does after the tool truck guys have Fudged all that can...

http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt..._broken_spark_plug_remover_lis_65600_alt.html

Brian, I have a customer with a 97 E350 V10 with 120K on the clock,still runs good,, started to do the plugs one time,,, quit after I was get'n almost no-were,,, how big a job is it if and when the day comes ,, moneys not the problem they pay whats in the total column,,,its me and my skin... I'm get'n to old for this chit...

Brian, is there a Ford bulletin that says not to use antiseize or is that your or your shop preference?

I just did one bank thise evening. Kinda wish I would have hit the plug areas with some carb cleaner or degreaser and hosed it off first. I was getting PO303 cylinder misfire reading so I switched the #3 coil pack to the front to see if the code changes or not.