You kind of lost me with all of that. You cannot make an engine with inadequate torque do the same work as an engine with more, regardless of gearing. Otherwise, you could stick a 3 horse lawn-mower engine into your 1 ton pickup and pull a 10,000 lb trailer well - as long as you stuck in a 20 or 30 speed gearbox.
I'm defining "work" as pulling equal loads at equal speeds.
Getting away from paper-based calculations, my 94 Ford truck - versus my 92 Dodge is a good example. My Ford has a turbo 7.3 diesel with 4.10 axles. My Dodge has a turbo-intercooled 5.9 diesel with 3.50 axles. Seems the Ford with the bigger engine and better gearing ought to at least be able to tow the same weight the same speed on inclines? Nope - not even close. The Dodge with the poorer gearing does much better.
By the way, I also have a 69 Dodge truck with a 318 gas V8 and 4.88 axle gears. It couldn't do half the work of the other two trucks mentioned. I wonder why?
Gearing, wind resistance, friction, gearing versus torque-curve of the engine, peak horsepower at what RPM, etc. all play into it.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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