In the late 60s I street raced a 64 Impala SS (an aerodynamic brick like your 55) with a 327 (originally a 300 HP), Muncie M-21 four speed, 4.11:1 positraction differential and M&H slicks.
The engine had ported and polished Mondello 2.02, 57 CC heads, a Crane SS 330 cam (more cam than the oft mentioned but rarely seen 327/375) with associated hardware, an Edelbrock C36 2x4 intake with 2, 500+ CFM AFB carbs, TRW 12.5:1 forged pistons, Doug Thorley headers, Mallory ignition, my own homemade cold air package using a 409/425 air filter and 2 6" inlet tubes to very large air inlets below the bumper. Though never dynoed, the engine likely produced in excess of 450 HP at around 7,000 RPM.
I routinely shut down 396 Chevells, all GTOs, Road Runners, Super Bees, GTXs, etc. I also took 3 out of 3 from a 69 Mach I Mustang with 428 SCJ and 45?:1 Detroit locker differential.
The engine made HP to 7,500 RPM and I power shifted at 7000 RPM. There is NO WAY that that car would approach 150 MPH reagardless of gearing.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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