But when you've worked on the goofy things day in and day out since they first hit the bricks and you're paid on a commission basis, you either know what's wrong when they pull thru the door or you find another line of work.
So, I'll say it once again:
The solenoid is bad and no amount of depressing the silly brake pedal is gonna change that fact because this is a mechanical failure which won't allow the circuit to exhaust the clutch apply oil pressure.
Here, I'll make it even simpler:
The solenoid plunger is jamming/cocking/locking "sideways" in it's bore when under pressure and it will not retract.
It will work just fine out on the bench and without the pressure. But when installed in the transmission and the 60lbs of line pressure is in the mix, the solenoid will jam and hold the converter locked until the engine is shut off (which looses the constant oil pressure).
The job pays a whole screamin' .8 of an hour from the time it hits the door anyway, so running around with a complete and lengthly model-wide diagnostic tree in yer pocket is a total waste of time.
Now, if the car should come in and it sounds like a diesel...........ooops, thats another whole chapter. :>)
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Today's Featured Article - My Ford Golden Jubilee - by Troy Estes. This article is about my '53 Ford Jubilee and a story that starts with taking the tractor to my brother's Starter/Alternator Rebuilding shop for a wiring fix. The generator was shot as well as all the wiring. I dropped off the tractor expecting a transformation from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system utilizing the original generator housing, and a total rewiring of the whole tractor. The front end center pin bushing was worn also so I ask that they replace it if they had time. Well, that’s wha
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