But when you've worked on the goofy things day in and day out since they first hit the bricks and you're paid on a commission basis, you either know what's wrong when they pull thru the door or you find another line of work.
So, I'll say it once again:
The solenoid is bad and no amount of depressing the silly brake pedal is gonna change that fact because this is a mechanical failure which won't allow the circuit to exhaust the clutch apply oil pressure.
Here, I'll make it even simpler:
The solenoid plunger is jamming/cocking/locking "sideways" in it's bore when under pressure and it will not retract.
It will work just fine out on the bench and without the pressure. But when installed in the transmission and the 60lbs of line pressure is in the mix, the solenoid will jam and hold the converter locked until the engine is shut off (which looses the constant oil pressure).
The job pays a whole screamin' .8 of an hour from the time it hits the door anyway, so running around with a complete and lengthly model-wide diagnostic tree in yer pocket is a total waste of time.
Now, if the car should come in and it sounds like a diesel...........ooops, thats another whole chapter. :>)
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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