I don't know why you'd destroy a button clutch in that application in 1000 hours unless your foot was glued to the pedal. I'm quite familiar with that transmission in one of my Fords, probably channeling about the same torque through an organic disc and we had no trouble getting 4000 hours from it. It might have been babied for 1/10th of an hour at some point in it's life... The dry clutch is the strongest part of the 8x8.
I agree on the spec sheet though. If it says it's wet with a power reverser, it's wet. That's what it looks like to me. I'd say the guys looking in the parts book are probably mixing the two up as most parts books are seldom so clearly written that they would spell out an either/or scenario. Most things I've seen in Ford parts books are defined by components and you need to know what components you have... I doubt Kubota is any less confusing, and probably moreso. You can only pack so much junk in that bellhousing, so I'd say you've either got wet OR dry, but not both. Still, for the life of me I can't imagine what difference it would make.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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