If there are no vacuum leaks in the lines and the lines aren"t stopped up then the seals in the actuators have to be the problem. I"d just about bet that your milk pump is either pulling more inches of vacuum than your getting on the cars system or it"s pulling at least as good of a vacuum but can sustain the pull enough to overcome any seal leakage. In other words it"s pulling the same inches of vacuum but at a greater volume so it can sustain that amount of vacuum constantly instead of the vacuum dropping off due to leakages. Try putting a valve in the line to the actuator, put the vacuum to it, and then shut the valve. If there is no leakage across the seals the actuator should hold it"s place because of the valve, if it moves then it"s not holding the vacuum because the seals are bad. Good luck.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Secondary Ignition Wires and Distributor - by Curtis Von Fange. In our last episode we spent the entire day checking out the spark plugs. Is that efficency? Actually, it took more time to explain than it really did to do the inspection. At any rate we decided that a compression test was in order so we could verify the internal engine status. That way we wouldn't buy any tune up parts until we were sure that the engine was in reasonable mechanical condition. Our tests showed a fictional compression reading of 85, 80, 82 and 86 psi. That is well within a
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