I"ve never had any problems using brass nuts and have done it many times over the years. As another post said the stainless ones do have a tendency to sieze after awhile. As for using a nickle based never sieze, it"s a good idea, and it will help the nut will come off easily for awhile regardless of what material it"s made of. Still, regardless of the claims that it handles the high heat, in the long run it"s all pretty much worthless. McMaster Carr should have them but if you can"t find the brass nuts then go with a grade 5 plain or coated steel. When it comes time to take them off the steel nut will be alot softer, therefore easier to split, than the stainless one will. In fact when removing a nut on an exhaust system the best way to get it off, with little effort, is to split or at least spread it with a sharp cold chisel. A couple of good hits with a chisel, in a verticle direction, on one of the flats either spreads or splits the nut enough that 98% of the time it"ll come off easy.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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