Throw it away. Having said that, the Sears, Eskas and others were price motors, noisey and mostly unreliable. If you want a project motor, get a Evin/Johnson or Merc. Parts will be availble and they were much better motors.
Reeds......a two cycle engine uses the whole engine block cavity as a "pump". It draws gas through the carb, through the reeds and into the combustion chamber. Best way to explain reeds is to equate them to a "flapper" when the engine is sucking fuel, the reeds fly open, hit the "reed stop" and open the block to the fuel. When the engine firing and not sucking, the reeds relax and go back to sealing off the block. The process is repeated each time the engine fires a cylinder. The reeds are pretty reliable and they are metal. Visualize a small tongue depressor made out of spring metal that is attached at one end and not at the other. It will deflect on suck and relax on fireing. As I said, the reed stop just stops the reeds from opening too far.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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