There is very little difference between them. Most of the moving parts are interchangeable between the two. Filter and and the ability to have a better electric control on the distance valve is about it. Both are a love or hate situation. Adjusting the kicker is a son of a gun. Once you do get it set, if you feed the baler at a faster rate the pan won't return fast enough and then the bale coming out of the chamber shoves the pan up as the bale tries to go under, then it's a mess. All of the pins attaching the pan need to be a good fit or the pan won't lay right. I actually did exactly what your doing on a 336, and gained nothing. I had someone operate the darn thing and watched it for a half day and realized what was going on. If the feed rate stayed the same, it would work perfect. Sold it to friend who didn't listen very well and was very t'd off until I went over and showed him exactly how to use it. Uniform windrows and uniform feed is the key to them.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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