Yes a Vulcan is easier and cheaper to work on, but not as much fun to drive.
Not sure on the leaking at 30-40K, My last car I ran one to 150K before the body fell apart Never used/leaked a drop of oil.
That said, from my reading, when I was shopping for one, and it mattered to me... They were considered a 200K engine. That 200K could be 150 or 250 depending on use(highway/city, maintenance, statistical failures on a bell shaped curve).
In any case she is on borrowed time. If mine, I would bump up to one of the thicker "high mileage" oils or 10W30. Run her till she makes a loud bang with a puddle in the road.
If body and rest of car is excellent, shopping craigslist for an engine is an option. Should be able to buy a low mile rusted out Taurus with a Duratech cheaper than any serious repairs to that engine.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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