I've put 6000+ hours on various pairs of Rolls (Allison) AE3007A1 and A1/3's. Never broke one, just one or two no starts and a couple of aborts due to weak air supply. Very easy to get along with. Thank You, FADECs.
As for codes and parts changing and all that's in the rest of this thread, with modern cars you need the computer and the codes to speed things up and get you on the right path. Then you need the information to be able to troubleshoot the individual parts (if it's worth the time). Earlier this year I struggled with an intermittent no-start on my 99 suburban. It would crank and crank and then hit once or twice or chug for few seconds. I have the full set of Helm manuals for it and all the troubleshooting flowcharts and code explanations. Only thing is that it gave _no codes_! After many hours of doing this and that procedure (and changing the intake gaskets: it still had the originals and they were starting to leak water) it turned out to be a bad distributor cap. Fortunately the only other part I had thrown at it was the ignition module after it tested kinda weak. For some reason it ran fine for about a week and then the problem re-appeared. Once the new distributor cap went on it was all sunshine and lollipops once again.
So, I'm glad I have a little scan tool to speed things up on my two newer cars but sometimes there's a failure that requires old school logic and troubleshooting to find.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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