I like to double nut them after heating around the stud, then rap on the end of the stud with a hammer a few times. Quite often that will help even with no heat, just have to hit it square on the end. If you do all this and don't get one out, and accidentally DO snap one off in there, just use oxy acetylene torch to blow remainder of stud out of the hole. The stud will always melt/ cut out of the hole before you melt the cast iron. Also is much easier if you drill a hole 1/4" or so through the stud before you use the torch, it takes less time to pierce it out of there. With a good dark shield, you can look right in the hole and see the threads appear as the stud melts away. Usually have to stop and chip slag out of the hole a couple times before you are done. Run a tap through down the hole, insert new stud with anti-sieze, done. Most people are afraid to try it, but it works very well. I used to do this all the time removing broken lower roller bolts on dozers and excavators. Some through holes, some blind holes, most in steel track frames. Had 17 broken bolts on one side of an excavator that had been broken forever that I had to take out one time. Good luck
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1929 McCormick-Deering 10-20 - by Randal Simmon. On July 4th 1998 my dad and I was sitting on the front porch when he said that he was going to sell his two 10-20's to a junk man. He said that the junk man was going to give him $500 for both of them but he hadn't received the money for them yet. So I went into the house and wrote him a check for $500 and bought them myself and said now they are mine. He had bought them about five years before thinking that he was going to restore them himself. After five years sitting in the barn, he changed h
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