I third the idea of drilling a hole first before using the torch. Seems like the inside of the stud will blow out of there first and it will work out to the edges. Sometimes if I'm worried about nicking the threads with the torch I will drill the hole, blow a little out with the torch and then try an easy out. If the easy out doesn't do, and it should because now the whole stud is red from top to bottom, I then blow it out the rest of the way with the torch.
This just got me to thinking, which is dangerous, maybe just drilling the hole and then blowing a fine flame inside the hole with a small brazing tip to try to heat the stud clear to the bottom, then cooling and try an easy out. I have a couple of broken exhaust studs on a Dodge 360 to reluctantly tackle some day. I might give it a try on that project.
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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