On that tractor I have had about 6 and before that I always used the FL-1A which I think was on the tractor when purchased.....that's how I knew to use it....was my first diesel tractor.
One reason I started using the FL-8 was a friend gave me about 4 of them years ago as he sold the Ford truck in which he was using them. By the time I ran out of them, WW didn't stock the FL-1A so I started using the 8A.
Don't remember the year, but when purchased it had about 3500 hours on the tractor, completely stock, nar a wrench on it as I could tell. Today it has 3511. Rot T 15 40 has been the oil of choice for as long as I can remember and usually changed the oil when it got solid black which was around annually. Age is catching up with me on letting it go 2 years and not catching it.
Parts replaced over the years???????? batteries, a generator, tires, muffler and tail pipe, rear PTO seal, (easily replaced), and just recently water pump, fan belt, pressure cap, and lower radiator hose which was severely weather cracked but held pressure anyway. Very reliable tractor and fuel is just not something you think about.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
... [Read Article]
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