OK...you say you don't want to run "heavy battery cable to the trailer from the truck batteries."
Congratulations; you just ruled out the most logical way to solve the problem. Go ahead, continue to be stubborn, and continue to have the same problem until you die; it ain't MY truck, it ain't MY trailer, and it don't matter to me if you fix the damn thing right or not.
BUT...if you ever decide to come to your senses, here's an idea: ever see those quick-connectors for jumper cables that those old-time wreckers used to have? Yeah, the one-ton Chevys and Fords with the little Holmes 440 sling-style wreckers that were everywhere before the industry switched to wheel lifts.
You can buy those connectors...believe it or not. And they'll handle all the amps you want for your winch or your power tail lift, and NOT blow the fuses if they're connected [and protected] properly. Using this setup means you don't HAVE to run all those amps through your standard trailer connector and have all kinds of mean, nasty, ugly things to deal with that direction.
Or, you can keep your head buried in the sand and keep using half-fast "solutions" that leave you dissatisfied. No skin off me whether you decide to do it right or not; I just don't want to be responsible for you saying later, "Hey, nobody ever mentioned THAT solution before."
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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