My thoughts on it are that you will simply be going to a naturally aspirated engine. Turbochargers pressurize the cylinders BEFORE and during the combustion stroke, further pressurizing the cylinders prior to combustion. It could be that the fuel mixture is richer for the turbo to make up for the increased air mixture, but that should be it as far as mechanicals go. Removing the turbo isn't going to break anything mechanically. Worst case, my thoughts, you may run richer because will have less air pressurized into the mixture. Give it a shot an see how it runs. You are not going to break anything by lowering, easing the pressure in the cylinders. You won't have the increased HP of a turbo, but depending upon where your crack is, if its losing pressure now, you already don't have the increased pressure, and may be running worse than a naturally aspirated engine because the impeller of a cracked housing losing pressure is blocking air flow, in essence.
You're already broke now, right? Take it off. You may run richer, but you aint going to run leaner, and lower pressure in the cylinders aint going to physically break a thing beyond lower HP. If it runs like crap, rich somehow, rejet through smaller injectors. What have you got to lose by trying?
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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