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Has anyone done this???????

Goose

Goose

Well-known Member
The turbocharger housing on my Allis D19 cracked. Probably metal fatigue.

This tractor is nothing special right now, just an old beater I use on a shredder.

Rather than pay several hundred dollars for another turbo, what would the impact be if I simply removed the turbocharger and fabricated a plate to attach the exhaust pipe directly to the exhaust manifold? The way I use the tractor, I really don't need the extra hp from the turbo, I'm just wondering if the engine would run OK in a naturally aspirated configuration, and if there could be any negative effects on the engine.
 
Like Retired Farmer basically said, a turboed engine has several differences due to the increased amount of air injected into the cylinder by the turbo. With the extra air more fuel is needed for proper combustion. Compression is also different, and often an engine with a turbo had different pistons to create the proper compression pressure, or the timing was set a bit differently to compensate.

In any case the engine may still run, but it won"t run right, and more than likely won"t run well enough to actually work like you need it to.
 
"It wouldn't run right, you would have to reset the fuel on it."

NO, you wouldn't, unless you were pulling it in the upper 75% or so of it's HP range.

Which he states he ISN'T.
 
My thoughts on it are that you will simply be going to a naturally aspirated engine. Turbochargers pressurize the cylinders BEFORE and during the combustion stroke, further pressurizing the cylinders prior to combustion. It could be that the fuel mixture is richer for the turbo to make up for the increased air mixture, but that should be it as far as mechanicals go. Removing the turbo isn't going to break anything mechanically. Worst case, my thoughts, you may run richer because will have less air pressurized into the mixture. Give it a shot an see how it runs. You are not going to break anything by lowering, easing the pressure in the cylinders. You won't have the increased HP of a turbo, but depending upon where your crack is, if its losing pressure now, you already don't have the increased pressure, and may be running worse than a naturally aspirated engine because the impeller of a cracked housing losing pressure is blocking air flow, in essence.

You're already broke now, right? Take it off. You may run richer, but you aint going to run leaner, and lower pressure in the cylinders aint going to physically break a thing beyond lower HP. If it runs like crap, rich somehow, rejet through smaller injectors. What have you got to lose by trying?

Mark
 
On some of the Cummins 4BT charts, the difference in compression ratio is only .5 for turbo vs. non turbo pistons. For what you are doing, just run it without the turbo, just the exhaust pipe and you'll be fine.

If you talk to older mechanics you will hear stories of engines that ran for years or goodness knows how long before they found out the turbo was stuck and not spinning.

The biggest thing you may notice if you get pulling a heavy load is more diesel smoke from some unburned fuel out the exhaust pipe. Under a light load the turbo does not add much boost anyhow if you watch a boost gauge.
 
"Turbochargers pressurize the cylinders BEFORE and during the combustion stroke, further pressurizing the cylinders prior to combustion."

That"s a bit DRAMATIC. And incorrect.

They simply stuff more air into the cylinders during the intake stroke.

Once the intake valve closes, that's the end of it!
 
Goose, How about a photo? I'm sure there's lots of turbo cores around that could donate a good turbine housing to your cause for not a whole lot of $$$.
 
As little as they are selling for, I'd put a new one on. If not, I'd also shorten up the lube oil loop, that originally went to the turbo, too. Make one hose connecting the inlet to the outlet pipe, down close to the block, so you can see that nothing is leaking.

I found this one on fleabay for
425.00
 
The turbo turnes all the time, so when the intake valves are closed, there is a momentary pressure build up of pressure between the compressor housing and the intake side of the combustion chamber. It all happens pretty quick at 2400rpm.
Loren, the Acg.
 
You're right D17 diesel and D19 diesel are the same except for the turbo which gave the D190 more
HP also probably need to cut the fuel back,that said I'd just replace the turbo and keep it simple.
 
Ben there ,done than, ran one for 7 or 8 years. Never noticed anything but we did not dog the thing , was just a knock about old beater that we kept around to run pto sprayers,rake hay ect. Never re sat anything and tractor ran fine. One thing that turbo was in the infancy of turbos so it really was just a mild boost of air.
 
Yes you can remove the turbo with no 'ill' effects. My brother removed the turbo on his 560 diesel for a time.Continued to farm with it,although he didnt use it for the 'heavy' work.The only thing noticeable was a bit slower on 'pickup' and a bit more smoke. Go for it!
 
I don't think it would have nearly as much horsepower without the turbo. I see blown boost hoses on trucks all the time, and the driver ALWAYS notices lack of power. That said, just loosen the clamp on the boost hose and run it to see how it does. Could your housing be welded ? Mark
 
Have you checked online with some turbo shops? They mix and match parts off the shelf and build turbo's to spec for individual applications.For a very reasonable price.
I wouldn't be standing at the Agco parts counter looking for Allis,Advance-Rumely,Buda Engine Company or Gleaner Manufacturing Company. For something generic like a turbo or electrical components.
How much are you saving when spending time and money on fabrication?
 
Basically end up with a D 17 power you will loose may be 15hp.You will have to cap the oil lines and rearrange the air cleaner pipes.
 
What turbo does it have? Any brand name, part numbers, casting numbers? Someone might have spare parts laying around that fit your AC. If not, I might be interested in the remains of your turbo if it is close to what I have.
 
I think what he means is the intake valve is open before the intake stroke. At the end of the exhaust stroke exiting exhaust also helps intake flow coming into the cylinder. It has now been discovered that the suction on the exhaust guides during overlap is so strong that without exhaust guide seals you are pulling oil down the exhaust guides into the combustion chamber.
 
Why wouldn't you check at an AGCO dealer? If someone came into the AGCO dealer where I work I would find them a turbo for their D19.
 
Not so fast about the exact engine. The 17 has 15.7:1 compression ratio and the 19 has 14:1. That is according to the Nebraska Test Reports. (#636 & 811) The 19 will likely be a real dog without the extra air and lower compression.
 
Years ago my local Case dealer got in a new 1070 that was lacking power. If I remember right it had 80 horses on the dyno when it should have had 108. They finally figured out it came from the factory with an 1175 engine only without the blower. A 1070 did not have a blower. The 1175 was the same cube engine as a 1070 but with a blower. As I understand this 1070 ran OK but it just didn't have the power it should have. I know I'm comparing a white colored tractor to an orange one but that's what happened in this case. Jim
 
My thought exactly. I'll check out fixing the turbo. I emailed a couple of salvage yards about a good used one, But being Sunday I haven't any responses yet.

Maybe I'm taking after my father, although I've resisted it all my life. He'd spend hours cobbling something together when he could have fixed it right for less time and effort.

I walked past my parents' car once, and saw about an inch of a 3/16" stove bolt sticking out of the top above the windshield. A sheet metal screw holding the passenger sun visor had stripped, and instead of screwing in the next size bigger sheet metal screw, he drilled a hole and ran a 3/16" stove bolt all the way through. And then didn't even break off the excess.
 
"They simply stuff more air into the cylinders during the intake stroke".

Stuffing air into the cylinders does what? Increases pressure. Yes? No?

Mark
 
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