You will like how your engine runs with that Chrysler electronic ignition system, I modified one to work on my 64 model 4020 10 years ago. I used the early 70's Mopar control box and double resistor along with the stock Mopar coil.
At the time, I still had a little 10MT starter on the tractor, so had to deal with low cranking speed. Point triggered EI will fire right down to 0 rpm, while magnetic trigger needs a little more rpm to excite the pickup coil. For that reason, I used the stock distributor to point trigger the ignition box, something I would not do again now that I have the much better cranking 20MT starter on the tractor.
I had to re mount the points in the distributor to deal with the fact that when you point trigger the Mopar EI box, it fires when the points close instead of the normal firing when the points open.
My main trouble with the stock point system was that it had very weak spark, only 4.5 volts to the coil(run position) with points closed. It was near impossible to start and keep the tractor running in cold damp weather. The ignition resistor was built into the rear of the ignition switch, That setup made for a weak spark when the switch and resistor was new, and degenerated to unusable as the resistor aged (2-3 years)in the weather.
When I installed the Mopar electronic setup, I pulled power from the battery at the starter, through a 15 amp fuse and switched it using a little "cube" accessory relay, powered by the original ignition coil feed wire.
Now the ignition system no longer depends on the original ignition switch / resistor / wiring feed and it's voltage drop because that same circuit feeds the starter solenoid during cranking.
The result was the thing now starts easily in any weather, pulls much better under load with hot spark that does not blow out under heavy load. I can run the carb leaner as the good spark now fires a leaner mixture. I used to have to change plugs every year, and had light load / idle plug fouling problems.
With the electronic setup, never a fouled plug, which have been in the tractor for 10 years since the ignition conversion.
Mine is a working tractor that must be dependable, so I was not wanting to put on a pertronix setup when no one locally stocks replacement parts. Did not want to buy a spare module, as that is the most expensive part.
With the Mopar stuff, parts are at every local auto parts store.
I have installed a half dozen or so Pertronix kits in tractors and skid loaders for others, all have been happy.
One advantage of that Pertronix kit is that you can install it in a worn out distributor with worn point cam, worn shafts, worn bushings where the point gap and timing is bouncing all over the map, when the Pertronix magnetic trigger system is installed, that wear makes almost no difference. The hotter solid state switched spark, now properly timed for each cylinder, really makes those old engine start and run nice.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1951 Farmall H - by The Red (John Fritz). I have been a collector of Farmall tractors since 1990 when I first obtained part of the family farm in Eastern Indiana. My current collection includes a 1938 F20, 1945 H, 1946 H, and the recently purchased 1951 H. This article will focus on what I encountered and what I did to bring the 1951 NEAR DEATH Farmall H back to life.
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