On engineering my own trusses I guess I been doing it all wrong. I've seen engineered trusses fail. I've seen the supposed best trusses fail. After reading all below there was BUT on reference to the use of graded lumber, #1 and/or #2 best. Personally the choice of wood is 1/2 the most important part of my truss. Fir being my favorite, spruce is way down the line, and yellow pine an aged old no-no. (yellow pine becomes directly proportionally more brittle with age) As for dimension size only one criteria applies, "No plank is any stronger than the the wood left around a KNOT!!! To me he weakest link (yes-link) in any truss is the chord. I've seen trusses made with 2"x6" rafters and 2"x4" chords. Personally I find this rather dangerous. What the? The chord holds the whole truss together! As far as gussets are concerned I put my trust into play wood gussets (no less than 1/2" thick) waterproof glued, a few galvanized nails for immediate tacking and the then cadmium plated heavy duty all purpose screws to finish. I've never had to ever repair one of my trusses. Can't say that for those engineered and factory manufactured. My construction on the job framing, trim, and commercial apprenticeship training started in 1948. At the latest rate of inflation this is my $0.04 worth. Fernan
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Today's Featured Article - Engine Valves - Some Helpful Information - by Staff. Intake - On the intake stroke the piston moves doward, sucking in carburized fuel through the open intake valve. Exhaust valve is closed. Compression - With both the intake and exhaust valves closed, the pistons upward stroke compresses or squeezes the fuel into the combustion chamber. Firing - Ignited by the spark, the compressed fuel explodes and forces the piston downward on its power stroke. Intake and exhaust valves are closed. Exhaust valves and seats are exp
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