On engineering my own trusses I guess I been doing it all wrong. I've seen engineered trusses fail. I've seen the supposed best trusses fail. After reading all below there was BUT on reference to the use of graded lumber, #1 and/or #2 best. Personally the choice of wood is 1/2 the most important part of my truss. Fir being my favorite, spruce is way down the line, and yellow pine an aged old no-no. (yellow pine becomes directly proportionally more brittle with age) As for dimension size only one criteria applies, "No plank is any stronger than the the wood left around a KNOT!!! To me he weakest link (yes-link) in any truss is the chord. I've seen trusses made with 2"x6" rafters and 2"x4" chords. Personally I find this rather dangerous. What the? The chord holds the whole truss together! As far as gussets are concerned I put my trust into play wood gussets (no less than 1/2" thick) waterproof glued, a few galvanized nails for immediate tacking and the then cadmium plated heavy duty all purpose screws to finish. I've never had to ever repair one of my trusses. Can't say that for those engineered and factory manufactured. My construction on the job framing, trim, and commercial apprenticeship training started in 1948. At the latest rate of inflation this is my $0.04 worth. Fernan
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Today's Featured Article - The Fordson F Ignition System - by Anthony West. A fellow restorer contacted me earlier this year asking for some help and advice on a model F that he was restoring. He had over a period of months spent a fair amount of his hard earned cash on replacement parts for the old "trembler" ignition. Sadly though all his efforts seemed to be a waste of time and money as he still couldn''t get the temperamental old thing to run correctly!! If i said that this was a little frustrating for him that would be "conservative" in fact the problem had reduce
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