On engineering my own trusses I guess I been doing it all wrong. I've seen engineered trusses fail. I've seen the supposed best trusses fail. After reading all below there was BUT on reference to the use of graded lumber, #1 and/or #2 best. Personally the choice of wood is 1/2 the most important part of my truss. Fir being my favorite, spruce is way down the line, and yellow pine an aged old no-no. (yellow pine becomes directly proportionally more brittle with age) As for dimension size only one criteria applies, "No plank is any stronger than the the wood left around a KNOT!!! To me he weakest link (yes-link) in any truss is the chord. I've seen trusses made with 2"x6" rafters and 2"x4" chords. Personally I find this rather dangerous. What the? The chord holds the whole truss together! As far as gussets are concerned I put my trust into play wood gussets (no less than 1/2" thick) waterproof glued, a few galvanized nails for immediate tacking and the then cadmium plated heavy duty all purpose screws to finish. I've never had to ever repair one of my trusses. Can't say that for those engineered and factory manufactured. My construction on the job framing, trim, and commercial apprenticeship training started in 1948. At the latest rate of inflation this is my $0.04 worth. Fernan
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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