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engineering your own trusses?

L

Lou from Wi.

Well-known Member
We are wondering how many of the people here engineered and built their own trusses for your buildings for home or tractor storage barns. We noticed on our local building centers handle the premade trusses,but instead of using 2X4 support web design, they are using a cheap 2X3 web supports.The lumber is cracked and twisted, in our opinion very poor shape. We have done quite a few, for our house, garage,and they have never failed in over 40 years.We've had snow over 40" (in 2 snowfalls, back to back) on the roof and no cracks, or breakage. We're making a press plate for the log splitter to press the tooth type gusset plates into the truss,instead of doing it by hammer. If JDE can use his log splitter for track repair, we will use ours for truss manufacturing.LOL. By the way we're using the design of the building that JDE posted on here for tractor storage building, only change is, we're going to use our trusses instead of rafter that they show.Le us know what you think, have you built your own.
LOU
 
Making your own trusses is fine, except if it collapses, the insurance company might not cover any loss or damage because it doesn't have an Engineer's Seal of Approval. It could get worse if somebody was injured without the Seal.....as a lawsuit would probably in the wind in a hurry.

Not saying it will collapse, but what if?

bob
 
Lou, I found that I could buy them from a local truss mill cheaper than I could make them. I Just bought sixteen 24 foot trusses for my new shop. They are extremely well made.

I did the math and buying pre-made was cheaper, and whole lot easier.

May be a different story where you live.
 
made mine 65 ft. span 9 ft. centers 2x8 BUT i webed both sides with 1/2 particle board been up 20+ years when other sheds went down 4 years age around me both if mine stood
 
Yes sir,

12x20 shed
20x40 shop
30x60 hay barn

All have had 2 foot of snow on them and they have withstood 65-70mph winds (tree line is over a mile away). No metal gusset plate (plywood), classic W pattern. No truss issues but have lost some tin due to the winds. Truss's in shop and hay barn both have 1 ton hoist hanging in them (engine removal and wagon unloading). Truss with hoist has bolts through plywood gussets, others have screws.
 
Around here, the building inspector wants to see a drawing of the truss, stamped by a licensed Professional Engineer. Obviously you don't have the same requirement. It seems to me you're being a bit presumptuous to say you're "engineering" your trusses, unless of course you're running a finite element analysis on your design.
 
OPinions are VALUABLE!!! Might be now making a mistake counting price of already manufactured units. etc. THATS WHY!!!!!!LOU
 
Been pounding nails since 1971 for a living. Started out building pole sheds. 1 every 2 weeks on average. We always built our own trusses. Later I got into home building. First house I built my own trusses. That was the last time since 1976. If your time isn't worth anything, then it will be cheaper to do them yourself. Otherwise, shop around for a good set. They are not all the same and different lumber yards buy from different manufacturers. The 2x3 may not be as important as you think in the overall design. As far as engineer stamps, I have never seen one on a truss yet. Doing VA loan houses require a certificate from an engineer but there has never been any that were stamped that I have used. If you try to modify one or do a repair on one, then you need an engineer certificate that tells you how to do it, but no stamps.
 
The stamp is on the drawing, not the truss. And that drawing will be on file at the building department, in the event something happens.
 
We're still fairly well left alone around these parts with building inspectors,as long as you pay their building permit fee. We can build it without big brother looking over our shoulder.We're not "presumptupous" just know what to expect around here for weather, and the like, alot more than under made truss webbing.If their design calls for smaller webbing,I just don't feel comfortable with it. Hand built is better quality, as we can sort the lumber and take the time to do it right.
Thanks for the reply,
LOU
 
Thanks MSD,
Your reply makes sense to us. Just like you we've been building our own.home,garages,sheds,decks and such since around the 60's. So far we've over designed everything and never had a building failure.Knock on wood.LOL.When we priced the trusses,and the cost of them to deliver them to us, the cost alone would pay for the materials.I'm sure they wouldn't do it for less,but figuring out the lumber for us to buy for the trusses and misc parts,cleat plates, plywood and webbing made from 2X4's we would be money ahead for us to do it ourselves.From what we can gather from the posts, the hand built ones are extreemely strong,We do appreciate your input.
Regards, LOU
 
hoof print,
Yep it is a whole lot different here. Trucking to us, bad lumber,cheap webbing and miniscule cleat plates are what we seen. The cost of the trusses are about normal,Since We haven't bought any except for little 8' for a shed,but for 24 foot seems a little much for such thrown together trusses that is mixed in with a load they have to be sorted and sent back as substandard cracked and warped units.Thanks for the reply,
Regards,
LOU
 
Built several building at 9000' elve in Colo. The last three had to be by code.....but the first one I built in early 70's was rafters 2x6 16' span 24" centers, no cross braces. metal roofing. Has had 72" snow storm on it, and it is still standing right next to the 2x10 16" center 12' span.
 
I'm looking at a set of truss plans right now. There are 64 different pages to it. Each page has a different style or shape of truss that is going in this house. There is not an engineer stamp on any page. I have never seen them on truss plans. This is no small truss company either. The have 3 semis running every day delivering trusses in the area.
 
Wheat Farmer ,
Now yours sound strong,just a little more snow than we get,maybe by an inch or two LOL.Nice to know that others have built their own and there just as strong as "engineered factory built" trusses are.Thanks again,
Regards,
LOU
 
Bob15, as we've stated, never a failure,over built everything and have no worries as to the frames structure.The trusses we've made up here went thru a twister in 1975,and still standing,with home built trusses,lost a few shingles,that was it. Insurance is another question later to be discussed by others, we have no problems with ours and they know we do good work,even done some repair work on houses for others when they had building problems for their insurance companys.Don't know how much we've replaced due to termite ladden lumber from local loggers that had trees sent to the mill.and stored on the ground where termites started.Another long story later to be discussed by others.Thanks for the reply,
LOU
 
I designed trusses for 18 years for a local truss company. I say designed what I mean is I input the information and the truss plate manufacturers software analyzed it. Then it was sent to the engineering department for them to stamp. Around here the building departments WILL NOT let you build your own trusses. What grades of lumber you use has as much to do with the strength as the webs do. Most lumber yards do not carry much stress rated lumber, #1 or #2 etc. Standard and better grade is what most carry and is not allowed in the chords of the truss. Stud grade or better can be used for webs though. I don't know if a truss company would sell you the truss plates if they knew what you were doing with them. I don't know where their liability ends where they would not have built the trusses. Simpson Strong Tie makes a plate that looks like a truss plate but it is stamped NOT FOR TRUSSES right on the plate. They don't want the liability either.
Part of the price covers the engineering on the trusses. I have done many repairs on trusses that were damaged some how. The little truss plate would be about a 12" x 12" plywood gusset with a pot load of nails in it. The engineers won't allow you any value for adhesive because they can't control how that is applied, only nails or screws(not grabber type screws either, they are too brittle and have no shear strength). The decision is yours alone so be careful whichever you do.


Steven
 
have built two buildings one with and one without, the one I made the trusses on is a gambrel roof hunting cabin 20x24 for a friend of mine--called for 2x6 on 16 inch centers ended up with 2x10 on 16 inch centers--what he had available and was free. both have held up well the premade trusses were cheaper in the long run with labor involved.
 
I made my own on 22'x12' and 10'x12' tool sheds that I built, both with 6' peaks. All I did was copy the webbed trusses of one of my barns using 2x6 across, 2x4 up to the peaks, but on smaller scales. Beyond the plates, maybe they call them pletes, I don't know, I also ran 4" counter sunk screws into the boards where they met. Those sheds have been standing since 2004 and are as solid as rocks. Snow doesn't stay long because of the pitches, but but have had over 1' deep heavy snows on them, some pretty high winds. They get slick because of the metal roofs, but on warm days if hit the screws into the purlins for grip, can walk on them very safely, and I tip the scales at about 300 lbs. I also used plates from Menards, and someone here told me to check the boxes for "Do Not Use For Roof Trusses", but again, have been up since 2004, very solid, and I aint one to sue anyone over my decisions anyway.

As somebody else said though, by the time you factor in time and materials, premade from a supplier is often cheaper. Probably always cheaper. Oh well, I made my own and don't regret it.

Good luck,

Mark
 
Dad and I built trusses for a shop/equipment storage building about 25 years ago. The 28 feet clear span pole building has 17 trusses set 4 feet apart. Trusses built from rough sawed (not dressed) full sized 2X6's and 2X4's of southern yellow pine sawed from logs harvested on the farm. Half inch plywood gussets nailed by hand. These trusses are stout!
We are in the sunny south ( NC )so we do not get the snow load you northern guys get, but this roof had a 16 inch snow load once, also a 100 mph wind at another time.
a65642.jpg
 
That is pretty. From my point of view, it is hard to argue with proven performance. You guys did very, very well. Should forever be proud of it.

Mark
 
Lou, good for you for building your own trusses, don't listen to the nay-sayers. I built a gambrel roof barn a few years ago, and I built my own trusses. I used 3/4 plywood, gorilla glue and lots of screws instead of truss plates. Here in Oregon, for ag use buildings there aren't any permits, so I could do what I wanted. The building inspector did tell me that if I didn't build to code they could make me tear it down. I got a good laugh out of it because I never let him in the building. As far as I am concerned, what I built is well beyond code. I have had contractors look over my work and they found nothing wrong with what I did. This past fall, I put an addition on my house and I had to have trusses made because of the engineer stamp. As far as I am concerned they are poor quality. As far as cost effective? Your time is your own, so use it as you think best. This country seems to be turning into a nanny-state with ever expanding governmental controls. I would rather if the gov just left me alone.
Ted
 
I have built several over the last 40yrs and used 1/2 plywood with nails and glue for the plates longest were 32ft for an addition on the house. Other was for the shop which is 30x60.
 
On engineering my own trusses I guess I been doing it all wrong. I've seen engineered trusses fail. I've seen the supposed best trusses fail.
After reading all below there was BUT on reference to the use of graded lumber, #1 and/or #2 best.
Personally the choice of wood is 1/2 the most important part of my truss. Fir being my favorite, spruce is way down the line, and yellow pine an aged old no-no. (yellow pine becomes directly proportionally more brittle with age)
As for dimension size only one criteria applies, "No plank is any stronger than the the wood left around a KNOT!!!
To me he weakest link (yes-link) in any truss is the chord. I've seen trusses made with 2"x6" rafters and 2"x4" chords. Personally I find this rather dangerous. What the? The chord holds the whole truss together! As far as gussets are concerned I put my trust into play wood gussets (no less than 1/2" thick) waterproof glued, a few galvanized nails for immediate tacking and the then cadmium plated heavy duty all purpose screws to finish.
I've never had to ever repair one of my trusses. Can't say that for those engineered and factory manufactured.
My construction on the job framing, trim, and commercial apprenticeship training started in 1948.
At the latest rate of inflation this is my $0.04 worth.
Fernan
 
My son is a carpenter.He says that most trusses are built with twisted junk lumber.I did building inspection for 15 years here.Trusses in a house are bad news.Trusses with metal plates can rust away in livestock barns.Inspections were done on residential building only.I worked as a carpenter in the early 60s.Ridge type roof vents are wothless.Snow will get inside and ruin ceilings.Ive seen engineered trusses collapse.Neighbor had a garage built , cost 10 grand.Trusses were all 2x4.The metal roof will help get rid of snow load.We get heavy snow loads some years.Two old 1 room school houses collapsed one winter here.Built around 1850.If you build your own trusses you will have to build a jig.
 
Engineers seem to think that God sits up nights admiring them.They make mistakes.Theres a large cattle barn here that will be under water here one day.I have photos to prove it.I told the current inspector and a fellow from the Department of Agriculture I had the photos.They were not interested.I warned one fellow that the field he wanted to build in was prone to flooding.He didnt care,Saw his house with 10 acres of water around it 5 years later.
 
I used to build trusses or a living. We had a very early computer program that would give you the information, lengths, angles, etc. Pretty cool for 1983. The trusses I see in lumber yards today we never would have built- poor grade lumber, poor fitting, generally poor quality. I've built a lot of trusses at the home level too and for the work involved, I'd glue and screw rather than try to use a log splitter to set plates.
 
I could not help but comment about the Southern Yellow Pine (SYP). I worked for a local lumber yard for about 4 years, while there, the company set up a truss plant and began building all kinds of wood truss configurations. The largest I hauled were 54'-0" and 60'-0" long, all were built from kiln dried SYP, No. 1 & No. 2, don't recall any No. 3 in there, lumber was clearly stamped. All trusses were designed by an engineer and signed, stamped sealed drawings were created for each job. I am aware of the brittleness of SYP, but it was commonly used, and still is for trusses today.

I've worked in that shop, from setting the saws to make the webs, setting the jigs on the table, assembling and running the roller compressing the splice plates on each side, which are hand set then pressed when the giant roller is run from one end to the other. They were then sent via rollers outside to be stacked and bundles, then loaded onto a Dump D Matic expandable truss trailer, which I used to deliver the bundles.

Most problems with these trusses were the results of handling, those large ones I mentioned earlier were a big pain in the @ss to deal with, had the boiler shop next door make up a spreader bar for them. Sometimes when dumping the bundles, in cold weather a chord or web may hit a hard lump of frozen dirt or ice and fracture, SYP is definitely brittle.

Lou, some good reading on truss design, please take a look, might be a bit much, but good information
AWC LRFD Guidelines
 
As a structural engineer (in training; still have to decide when to take that wonderful PE) I would just issue some caution. As long as you are not trying to do anything fancy you probably could build your trusses. Everyone here can probably build a wall without consulting and engineer. 16" OC studs with 16 penny nails. Why? Because years and years of experience leads to a standardized strength that works. If you are copying a rafter design and making it into trusses you most likely would be ok. I do like the idea of using the metal plates as opposed to just plywood for the gussets. My dad built a small gabrel roof barn (like you buy at the box stores) and made his own trusses out of scrap wood and used plywood gussets, however the span of the trusses are only about 10'.

Like others have said you should use good straight grained wood. Also try and keep the bracing lengths to a minimum so they don't buckle under wind/snow load. Make sure you brace the ends of the building for wind and cross brace the trusses together to prevent racking (the perpendicular furring strips do not provide proper racking restraint).
 
Your local Extension office can sell you an inexpensive booklet full of engineered truss designs that you can build.
 
So far, what you have is a list of opinions. I could give you mine, but just as is the case with the others, it may or may not have any validity.

You need to look at your local/state building codes for requirements on engineered truss construction. You can build a building that is a virtual bomb shelter, and if it doesn't comply with building codes of jurisdiction. all is for naught.

I spent 40+ years in the construction industry, about half in the field (as a carpenter) then after completing a degree in structural engineering, I moved into the office as an estimator, then on to project engineer. I know how to design a truss, have the credentials to "certify" a truss, and have done so in compliance with building codes of our locale. That said, I wouldn't think of telling you what you can or cannot do in Wisconsin.

If the building requires a permit to build, or will be insured once complete, I'd make absolutely certain I was in compliance with local/state building codes.

True "engineered truss'" will have a stamp on each one, come with drawings as far as assembly/construction of roof system, and often go so far as to even tell you where/how/what type of fasteners you need to attach them to the building itself. Simply copying an engineered truss (from drawing) does NOT make it a certified engineered truss. It HAS to have engineers stamp on the truss itself.
 
Being a licensed professional structural engineer in two states i have designed and checked designs of many trusses. To really do it right you have to determine the design loading, PSF and any concentrated loads on he roof.
Many designs are under designed and many over designed. You have to know the allowable stresses on the wood grade and species being utilized.

That being said, many trusses are home built for small buildings with non living spaces that work fine for most of the time and if a collapse does happen it is not too serious. Many people with a good feel for working with timber can fabricate a decent truss that will work.
 
When I built my barn in1985 I got a book from the American Plywood Assn that gave engineering information for trusses built with plywood gussets at the rafter joints glued and nailed with a very specific nailing pattern that used about 100 nails as I recall. I have 14foot clear span clearance at the peak and fit hasn"t moved a bit in all these years. Makes it real easy to move ladders and pipe around inside.

Don"t know about engineering approvals. When I got my permit I asked when they wanted to inspect it. They said "oh,we won"t inspect it but the permit will make sure it gets on the tax rolls.
 
I built some for my sun porch 5 years ago. Friend who is construction foreman for a LARGE company came over and made one.I laid it flat on the shop floor and made 8 exactly like that one at a time on top of the "pattern".
 
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