1) YOU SAY: I do have 10 gauge wire from the BAT on the Alternator to the POS side of the Battery.
That wire SHOULD run to the Load (NOT Battery)side of the ammeter NOT direct to the Battery. If you wire it direct to the battery (Supply side) of Ammeter, the ammeter isnt registering charging current out of ammeter to battery. IM NOT SURE IF I GOT THAT CORRECT IN MY POST ABOVE, SORRY I WAS IN A HURRY. Theres only 1 wire on battery supply side of ammeter, it wires to + of battery, the other Load side feeds loads (lights and ignition) PLUS wires to genny or alternators output
2) YOU ASK: I was wondering about the Coil, looked backwards to me, but it always ran fine for me before I messed around removing the alternator. (Could that be whats killing the diode??)
The coil will still produce a spark if at reverse polarity, but its not as good or efficient as if its wired correct to match battery polarity i.e. for Neg ground the coils - wires to distributor. NO thats NOT whats killing the diode. Excess curent can kill a diode, but that would mean the alternator has a problem??? Normally the excitation circuit would be vey low, less then an amp even UNLESS THERES A SHORT??? You sure the lil No 1 (Excitation) terminal was used for excitation?? and 2 (Sense) wired to big main output...
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Today's Featured Article - Grain Threshing in the Early 40's - by Jerry D. Coleman. How many of you can sit there and say that you have plowed with a mule? Well I would say not many, but maybe a few. This story is about the day my Grandfather Brown (true name) decided along with my parents to purchase a new Ford tractor. It wasn't really new except to us. The year was about 1967 and my father found a good used Ford 601 tractor to use on the farm instead of "Bob", our old mule. Now my grandfather had had this mule since the mid 40's and he was getting some age on him. S
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