Well the pump on the Liftall does not work at all unless the rod is pulled. The hitch is set up as lift and down force (double acting) and is correct as is. The rod on the Liftall can be wired back, leaving it on all the time. It hurts nothing to do so. The cap can be sealed with no opening at all (the two way cylinder gives back very close to what it puts out, so no vent is needed (I recommend this as it keeps moisture and dirt out) the dipstick is extended because the setup for the return line T raised the dipstick location. It seems a bit cobbled, but might not come out if it was a solid 1/8" rod that was stock. The stock stick is on a washer just as yours is. The diagram shows the return in the bottom of the Liftall drain. This is a bit less messy, and works well. JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Electronic Ignition - by Staff. Oil, for example has come a long way in the last 50 years and I don't use anything but the latest API grade available. I've heard the arguments for non-detergent oils but would never trade it for today's formulations. Paint is another, the modern acrylic enamels are great for resistance to grease and fuel stains, retaining their shine and they last forever; unlike enamels and lacquers . Still another is the alternator. No doubt using the original generator keeps the tractor pure, but for thos
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