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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Crankcase sealing check

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jdemaris

02-21-2005 07:57:24




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You need to take something into account when working on a two-stroke-cycle engine -
especially chain saw engines like Homelites. Fuel delivery is dependent on the crankcase
being sealed. If it's not, the rest of the fuel system won't work properly. Yes there are
more obvious things to check i.e. & e.g. the fuel filter in the tank, the fuel filter in the
carburetor, the fuel pump diaphragm, the vacuum port or the vacuum hose that hooks to
the fuel pump in the carb, reed valve if it has one, etc. But . . . again - the engine depends
on a sealed crankcase. I was a Homelite and Stihl mechanic for years (back to the 60s).
If a saw had erratic fuel related problems, such as bad idling, hot starting issues, lean
running, etc. - you first pulled the muffler and checked the exhaust port and cylinder liner
in that area. That is usually the highest wear area - especially if the saw was running
lean. If that looks okay, you then block the exhaust port, and also block the intake port -
and then pressure test the crankcase. Very often the crankshaft seals leak - especially
with Homelites because they are cheaply built and usually do not have ball bearings on
both sides of the crank. In fact, some Homelites only have a needle bearing that rides
directly on the crankshaft. We threw a lot of Homelite saws in the garbage due to worn
out crankshafts. Not the problem with Stihl saws - at least not the older ones except for
the little el-cheapo 015s. As far as just the crankshaft seals leaking, it is common for the
seal on the sprocket side to get trashed and it's pretty easy to replace once the sprocket
and clutch is off. So, if you have a persistent problem, you need to pressure check the crankcase. If it
leaks, the air-fuel mixture will not be consistent no matter how much you fool around
with the carburetor, hoses, gaskets, etc. Along the same line and being a little more general - two-stroke-cycle engines tend to
use one of three common fuel-charge delivery designs. One is the roto-port which is rare
- so I won't describe it. Another is the piston-port sealing design like Stihl uses, and
another is the check-valve reed design like many Homelites use. When the piston is on
its down stroke, it pressurizes the crankcase below the piston so the fuel charge can be
delivered later to the combustion chamber above the piston. So, there must be a way of
holding the charge, separating it from the combustion chamber, and then delivering it. Thus the three systems aforementioned. So, with a piston-port engine like most Stihls - if
the piston or cylinder wall gets scored by the ports, fuel cannot be delivered properly. In
a reed-checkvalve type engine like many Homelites - if the reed breaks, you get the same
sort of fuel delivery problem. If your engine has a reed valve, it will be directly below the
carburetor.

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Bob - MI

02-23-2005 11:57:36




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 Re: Crankcase sealing check in reply to jdemaris, 02-21-2005 07:57:24  
Very well written.

Spent a lot of time with 2-stroke motors when I was a kid (trail bikes and street motorcycles). Understanding the intake and compression cycles of the engine was often a key to keeping things at top performance. I rode 2-cylinder Kawasaki street bikes and have a real-time understanding of rotory valves and how they can be manipulated to enhance the performance of the engine. Had a 3-cylinder 500cc Kawasaki that was a real screamer and that was conventionally ported. Bought lots of parts for that one. Finally wised up and bought a Honda - no more parts needed.

Have an old outboard motor that has trouble starting and running at idle. Turned out to be a corroded reed valve cage not allowing the petals to seat properly and causing blow-back through the carb.

Too bad these engine designs are such polluters. The power to weight ratio is tough to beat.

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MickPB

02-21-2005 14:10:57




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 Re: Crankcase sealing check in reply to jdemaris, 02-21-2005 07:57:24  
Thanks for the specific knowledgable advice. Is there a specific rate of leakage that is acceptable / not acceptable? I assume working on them everyday YOU probably can just tell but any rule of thumb would be appreciated.
Thanks!!



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jdemaris

02-21-2005 15:16:12




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 Re: Crankcase sealing check in reply to MickPB, 02-21-2005 14:10:57  
The crankcase shouldn't leak at all. When pressure checking it, you put about 7-10 psi of pressure on it and let it sit for a few minutes. The tool that's is made for crankcase testing has a bulb you squeeze hooked to a check-valve and a low pressure gauge. If the gauge stays at 10 psi, than it's fine. Usually, either there is NO leak, or it leaks very badly. Saws almost always develop such leaks under the sprocket and clutch - for two reasons I guess. One, lots of wood chips get in there, and two - lots or pressure gets put on that side of the crank. If I had a saw that was suspected of a leak, it's faster to just pull the sprocket and clutch off and look at it - than it is to go through the trouble of pressure testing it. If the seal is bad, you will see it - and - if the crankshaft is loose, you'll feel it. Also, as far as the reed valve goes - if your saw has one - it is easy to check. Just pull the carb off and look at it. It has a reed that is made of light spring steel and is supposed to be in a closed position. It acts as a one-way check valve. They break sometimes, or half-break and get stuck open.

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LUCASSS

02-23-2005 14:17:06




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 Re: Crankcase sealing check in reply to jdemaris, 02-21-2005 15:16:12  

HAVE A TIP FOR YOU 2 STROKERS YOU MAY NOT KNOW ABOUT PRESURE TESTING A CRANKCASE. YOU WILL NEED A ADAPTER TO GO INTO THE PLUG HOLE TO HOOK THE LITTLE PUMP TO. THEN TO BLOCK OFF THE CRANKCASE, JUST TAKE THE CARB AND MUFFLER OFF ,COVER THE OPENINGS WITH DUCT TAPE,REINSTALL THE CARB AND MUFFLER AND DO THE PRESSURE TEST. STIHL,WALBRO AND ECHO HAVE THE PLUG ADAPTER AND PUMP. LUCAS



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