Hey Duey (IA) @#$%@# D10 still won't crank!!!!!

Replaced solenoid and this rig still refuses won't crank. Just get a click, click, click. I am suspecting a bad ground between starter and frame as the bolt used to hold starter in position is "wallered" out. Today I am going to try and jump start it across the terminals.

Once I eliminate the suspect starter ground problem any other tips/tricks?

Also, how can I test the Echlin Voltage Regulator as I am sure that will be next!! Looking for the AC tractor gods to smile down on me just a bit before I really get !@#$#!@*

Thanks to all who have helped in the past and continue to do so now. I will keep you posted of progress on getting this rig started and fixing AC single bottom 16" plow beams. Another dumb@ss move with another story.

P*issed at my D10!

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Why won't it run?

Had a similar problem on my Oliver S55, only I didn't get the click. Troubleshoot the running by the following simple procedure.

1. Check for fuel in the bowl. Clean if dirty or milky (water in gas). If you have the fuel bowl off crack the valve for a second and make sure it flows.

2. If you have a timing light hook it to the coil to distributor wire.

3. Hook up you pull starter.

4. Turn the fuel ON (my favorite step to forget). 5. With the ignition switch ON, hold the timing light trigger down and hold the light where you can see it. Try to start the tractor and see if you get flashes.

Flashes? Check the distributor cap/rotor/wires or a fuel problem.

No flashes? 1. With the ignition ON check for battery voltage at the switch side of the coil. If you do not have this, turn the switch OFF, disconnect the coil to distributor wire at the coil, turn the switch ON, and check again.

2. If no voltage, the switch or wires between the battery and the switch and coil are bad. (This is what my Ollie had). Buy a switch and a couple of alligator clips, and make a jumper switch (use #10 wire). Hook the coil up to the battery with the switch, turn it on, and try pull starting again. (Worked on mine. My starter was good so I made a second swithc to jump the starter solenoid. Note this will run down the battery quickly). If it runs rewire / reswitch.

3. If good voltage, points/condensor/coil/coil to distributor wire.

As to your starter problem: This is a trick I learned in auto school many years ago. You need two people and a set of jumper cables. Remove the starter and place on a cement floor. One person holds the starter. Hook one side of jumper cables from battery to starter power terminal, not the solenoid. Then the second person just touches the starter case with the other jumper cable. The starter should spin - hang on because they are very torque-y! (good spark show too)

If it doesn't spin it's a starter issue. The copper contact washer is a good cheap try and has fixed many a Delco product. If it does spin than rehook the cables to the solenoid, and use the switch from above to connect the solenoid battery feed to the trigger solenoid. If it still works cables or solenoid wire. If not, solenoid or the connections. Best of luck.

AC single bottom 16" plow beams still bent - no progress to report.

Response to Mr. Roger Small

Starter is not stuck in the flywheel. That was one of my first suspicions and reason for pullling starter. Can turn starter bendix by hand. Can also turn motor over - got good oil pressure. See end of this post for R&R of starter. Thanks for your encouragement. :)

Response to Mr. Bruce Nelson

Have not yet looked at this possiblity. At this time there is no tapered bolt installed. I thought I had an intermittent ground because of this bolt. Retapped & installed new untapered bolt = 0 ohms. Got it pushing against the tapered hole. Might have this to tight and your comments warrant additonal investigation. Can starter be in any position that engages the flywheel and be tightened down? See bottom of post for working through the electric problem areas. Any other ideas on WIERD things to look at? Thanks for the encouragement. :)

Response to Mr. Glenn

I think you may have the hit the nail on the head!!! Yes, I have used a meter to check volt drops and am fluent with one. Used to be in aviation until Clinton killed Defense Industry. Plan to follow your sequence of events, BUT, how do I read thru the regulator (no schematic)?

Response to Mr. ShepFL (doh!)

Maintained my composure for the entire day. Fought off the overwhelming urge to try out my new .44 Mag handloads (D10 for sale cheap - BLOWN BLOCK !!) See other comments at the end of this post.

Response to Mr. Gordon of TN

Will be checking for voltage drops and replacing cables, wires as needed. Thanks for the encouragement. :) As to the air - yeah, to much humidity for me. I'm originally a North Idaho hillbilly.

Response to Mr. kb

My starter is the model that has the solenoid mounted on the side of the starter. Jumped the starter off as described. Still click, click, click. Suspect the starter is froze up as you mentioned as new solenoid tested with 3 different power sources (static battery, jump from truck & battery charger).

Response to Mr. Dale E.

Thanks for the kind words and understanding. I have not cleaned the starter contact but I will. Be careful! I have been exercising care. I will be verifying electrical.

Sunday's effort -

Tractor still sitting in the yard, no bullet holes or sledge hammer adjustments YET! Now that I have had a shower and some iced tea the .44 MAG urge is SLOWLY subsiding!!

Recleaned terminals on the regulator - got a new one on order thru NAPA. Supposed to be in by Wednesday.

Swapped out battery with one from the Oliver. Still no joy.

R&R'd starter per Mr. kb, jumped it outside of the tractor using a battery then jumper cables to truck & finally directly off a battery charger with cranking amps. Bendix drive can be manually turned, HOWEVER, it never engages when jump testing. Click, click, click continues. Suspect froze starter. I've had starters go bad and it was always the solenoid. Thinking I should put in new brushes and bushings after electrical is verified 100%

Motor turns over nicely. Have no compression gauge but assume compression is good. Good oil pressure (between O and R on original Allis gauge).

In a fit of frustration I figured that I would pull start the #@!#%^& thing! Had Mrs. ShepFL hook on and drag me and this da&m tractor all over Baker County, FL miles showing all my neighbors the great gas mileage my D10 gets. Tried 4th gear, 3rd gear and finally 2nd gear - choked and unchoked, full throttle, no throttle. TRACTOR REFUSED TO START & STARTER STILL FAILS TO ENGAGE/CRANK.

That said, I feel I have more problems than just a finicky starter - it should have pull started RIGHT???

Action plan for this rig in order of priority -
1. Verify all electrical continuity (including instrument panel).
2. Check for voltage drops.
3. Replace defective wiring as needed.
4. Check coil and distributor for spark.
5. Check plug wires / coil wires.
6. Replace regulator as required. 7. Reclean carb, verify no stuck or sunk float. Considering to send out for rebuild if anyone knows of a good shop in the SE.
8. Remove starter and clean inside & out.
9. Add new starter brushes and bushings.
10. Verify starter coils & armature.
11. Verify internal starter/solenoid ground switch
12. Pray the generator is good.
13. Try to start again with key, barring that try pull starting again.
14. If still no joy (click, click, etc.) verify .44 MAG stash
15. Determine long & short range handload efficiency
16. Post YMTAG Tractor 4 Sale ad - D10 with blown block!!

Thanks again y'all for the time & consideration. Stay tuned. ShepFL

Retapped 5/8" hole on frame where starter mounts & added new bolt to position starter.

Measured 0 ohms between starter case, tractor frame and newly installed bolt. To me this eliminates suspect ground issue.

Jumped solenoid from known good battery, still just get click, click, click.

Removed Echlin Voltage Regulator, cleaned terminals, added new ends to the wires and reinstalled - click, click, click.

Removed voltage regulator and opened up. Looks brand new inside. Planning to replace this next.

Looking for other suggestions. Thanks.

With the starter off the tractor connect the positive side of the battery (assuming it is 12volt negative ground) to the big lug on the solenoid and connect the ground to the starter at the point you ran the big bolt through the starter at, as the metal should be cleaner and give your a better ground. Cross the big lug and the smaller and see if it will turn the starter without the extra stress of starting turning the flywheel.

If it is possible to access the copper connection point between the solenoid and the starter you can connect the positive cable at that point. The starter should easily turn at that point, assuming it is not froze up.

I've had starters go bad and not turn, after putting in new brushes and bushings it worked fine. Bushings and brushes just cost a couple of dollars to fix it with, if they are the problem.

The click you are hearing is likely the solenoid engaging, but the starter is failing to turn. A low battery can also cause this to happen.