Re: Welding, upside down....

Posted by Billy NY on April 04, 2006 at 15:55:58 from (64.12.116.74):

In Reply to: Re: Welding, upside down.... posted by T_Bone on April 04, 2006 at 06:40:47:

I agree, a truck frame is not the place to teach ones self how to weld, there is no doubt about that.

I think I've made myself appear more of a novice than not, trust me, I've got some skill and ability, but within limitations, that I would not exceed. The work that I am doing is in no way going to get anyone hurt, the frame will be stronger than it was, and I don't agree with the methods used by whoever did this work originally, but it has held with no stress or fatigue, even after the bottom plates popped from expansion of rust.

The main vertical welds are the strength on this extension piece in the middle of the frame, and with the bottom flange plates re-done, ( 3 of 4 were heaved from corrosion, the old poorly done welds failed, the frame did not rust here except on the surface) the vertical welds in-tact, top flange joint fillet welded, and plated over and welded, same joint also gets a 3/8" x 3" angle through bolted spanning over the existing vertical joint, for the dump body mid mount, I'd have to think it will be very strong. If one were to grossly overload the truck and abuse it off road, yes I'd expect a failure, but not with careful or normal use. Ironically the dealer who sold me the truck made no mention of this, I'd have not bought it, loaded my car on it and made the journey home, as is, it would have failed long ago, I think it's been caught in plenty of time and the remedial work will eliminate any worry about it.

I won't ramble on about my experience and skill level, but I do have an extensive background in the building construction industry on some very large projects, and considerable experience with the associated field welding common to the industry, that has been very helpful outside of work, but also agree the vocational welding course would be highly beneficial to anyone needing to learn, including myself, I will keep an eye out for a course locally, even if I breeze through it, there is always something to learn and I'm no expert. It will however expose any bad habits and other practices that may be incorrect, will be well worhwhile.

I have spent considerable time while building mock-ups at various testing labs, doing quite a bit of welding, with experienced and certified welders giving advice, was a real good opportunity to take advantage of, glad I did, was very helpful. I was also senior project manager and a field superintendent for a curtainwall contractor, I used to have a lot of trades to keep track of, and all kinds of structural welds to place, have inspected etc., the experience has been helpful aside from work.

I was thinking that the arc length was the key to this, I know what happens when you get too close, ove too slow, use too much heat, or too far away, either burn through or it starts popping, and you lose the arc, then it sticks on the re-strike. Your work gets covered with slag and the weld becomes porous, you can make a mess quickly, I've done that as I think most people have when first starting out, it is part of the learning curve. I will use the same amperage as what gives me a good weld on the flat and 1/8" 7018 electrode, keeping tight to the base metal. I can test this on scrap and dial in from there mocking the position I need to do it in. I agree, the arc distance is very important, it is obvious when you observe your work, how things are affected, it takes some time to be able to maintain that distance correctly and continously, otherwise snap, pop, crack and you are stuck. The 7018 likes the heat, turn it down too low and this happens I've noticed. I use a dark, shade 11 lense, so it can be hard to see sometimes, which also plays a role here too, but I like to protect my eyes with as dark a lense as I can get away with. I don't need the 5/32" electrode for the underside of the flange, the flange is 1/4" thick, and the top came out very nice, I just need to run a neat, well formed weld to fill in the 2 1/2" joint from underneath, it will look good aesthetically to an inspector, but more importantly will also provide more strength.

These 2 top flange joints were open all these years, not sure why they stopped the weld there, on just these 2 joints, the other side of the piece added, the weld was completed from top to bottom including both flanges. Once done, this frame will be stronger than it was, if I had any doubt I'd have a shop do it. I had the truck looked over for commercial inspection by a reputable truck/diesel engine repair shop I've known for years, we went over the repairs needed in detail, agreeing that the work I'm doing will be fine, and he's strictly by the book. I could add diagonal fish plates to the web, but see no need to do so. I will take a look into the previous threads, I've read many of them over the years, one of the great things about this site is the archives and access to them. Do appreciate everyones advice, thanks again !

Replies:

• Re: Welding, upside down.... T_Bone 09:20:57 04/05/06 (1)
  • Re: Welding, upside down.... Billy NY 14:02:01 04/05/06 (0)

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