Re: small engine -- no oil

Posted by RN on May 15, 2014 at 11:45:33 from (66.188.143.138):

In Reply to: small engine -- no oil posted by Chris Jones on May 15, 2014 at 08:10:54:

2 main friction points on a engine- the piston/cylinder wall area and the connecting rod to crankshaft bearing area. Next close in line is the main bearing area, followed by the valve train. The seizure of small engines cause varies some- but the cylinder wall/piston area tends to seize first with low/no more oil failures at moderate speeds. Con rod to crank failure to lube symptom at high speed is usually not a "seizure" but a snapped rod banging inside or through the cylinder wall- a "blown" engine. Helpful to know the engine involved- did it have a oil pump or splash lube? Whatever- couple small engine shops, chainsaw shops and moped shops that got the run without oil in premix and the "forgot the drain plug after oil changed" for 4 strokes have roughly 2/3 to 3/4 stopped engines with piston and cylinder wall seizure but still safe con rods and crank bearings- especially upright cylinder engines. The lack of lube affects them first and overheating piston rubs hard on cylinder wall and "seizure" occurs. SO, better than 1/2 the time a top end repair or correction will get the low lubed engine back in service- knurl piston skirt, fresh rings, crosshatch bore for the fussy racers. For the economy special- top crankcase to recommended level, add a couple tables spoons of oil to top of piston through spark plug hole ad let set a hour to let oil trickle down around rings- a couple shots of WD40 or PB Blaster first in spark plug hole helps according to some mechs- and slow turn 5 to 10 turns before putting spark plug back in and trying to run. The oil in plug hole and couple slow turns is normal in Wisconsin for over winter stored various engines- 50 weight racing oil in cylinder will get some stuck rings sealed some at first start attempt. If you have a fiber optic cable/bore light you can look inside cylinder without pulling head, note scratches on cylinder wall, chips on top of piston. Oil up top of piston/cylinder, do the slow turns and listen for rod rattle, put plug back in and hand turn couple cycles to "feel" compression and then try ignition. More likely to run with some smoking, lessor chance of quick rod failure but still a possible. Customers choice, give fair warning and note the Harbor Freight 6.5 engine often on sale for $99.95--but full price of $129.95 saves a lot of rebuilding time- usually only a hours labor to swap. RN

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