I suggest you actually measure the water temperature, check more closely as it warms up and go from there. More detail might be a help, like checking there is flow to the radiator, top and bottom hose temperatures.
If the rad tubes are clogged and there is no flow, it won't matter a jot whether the thermostat is open or not.
Things like removing the fan and checking for even temps across the core.
Things like checking the heat levels at the front and rear of engine (yes, I have seen blocks completely stacked out with solids at the rear end of the engine such that water flow around the rear cylinder re was virtually non-existent).
The temperature guage is simply a low current ammeter so little to go wrong, so they usually work or don't. It will almost certainly have a shunt across it to reduce the current flowing through the actual measuring circuit, but that would normally give a high reading even at cold, I would have thought.
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