1961 1800A gas - cooling - still confused

Anonymous-0 · Apr 28, 2013

Ok, still need help on my oliver 1800 gas...today we put on new thermostat, new water pump, new sending unit...fired it up to let warm up and make sure all is well...and it ain't...started it up...temp gauge cold...came back to check on it 10 minutes later and temp gauge was pegged on hot again! I still don't think it is really hot...but not sure what else to do? Couple things have thought about:
1. Could the actual temp gauge be bad?...although it does read cold at beginning then goes to hot? It is about the only thing we didn't replace?
2. Thinking about taking out temp sending unit and gauge and an old fashion temp gauge in it? If we do this what is proper temp gauge to get? (I left shop manual at the farm).
Thanks Reaver

ollie gm · Apr 28, 2013

I had a problem on a 1900 that showed the temp at mid range when the coolant was boiling. The gauge and thermostat were at fault. If your coolant wasn't blowing out the overflow and the engine didn't smell hot I would put my finger on the gauge. If that doesn't help move to the head gasket and beyond.

My personal preference is a manual temp gauge. They are reliable and do give some indication as to when they are starting to fail.

oliver90owner · Apr 29, 2013

You wrote: 'I still don't think it is really hot'

I suggest you actually measure the water temperature, check more closely as it warms up and go from there. More detail might be a help, like checking there is flow to the radiator, top and bottom hose temperatures.

If the rad tubes are clogged and there is no flow, it won't matter a jot whether the thermostat is open or not.

Things like removing the fan and checking for even temps across the core.

Things like checking the heat levels at the front and rear of engine (yes, I have seen blocks completely stacked out with solids at the rear end of the engine such that water flow around the rear cylinder re was virtually non-existent).

The temperature guage is simply a low current ammeter so little to go wrong, so they usually work or don't. It will almost certainly have a shunt across it to reduce the current flowing through the actual measuring circuit, but that would normally give a high reading even at cold, I would have thought.

Anonymous-0 · Apr 29, 2013

A little more info:
We did pour water in the top of the radiator while we had the bottom hose off and water seem to flow pretty freely through the radiator.
Water/antifreeze and oil both seem pretty clean.
Thanks Reaver

Jerry P Scheerhoorn · Apr 29, 2013

Not sure if the same as your tractor, when I replaced heat gauge and sender, the good parts man said they had to be a matched set. Worked for us!!! jps

ollie gm · Apr 29, 2013

Quick thought:

Make sure you don't have an air lock in your engine. This effect has the air trapped in the engine and the radiator full of water. A t-stat with no bleed hole and/or installed backwards can cause this. I have seen home made gaskets block the bleed hole making the air removal take forever.

Don't run the engine too long because when the steam eventually opens the t-stat and causes red hot cylinder walls to be slammed with cold coolant, things move around fast.

Good luck!

Anonymous-0 · Apr 29, 2013

Have you checked any temperatures with either a heat gun or a candy thermometer? Late 1800 A tractors had a vent line at the water pump, early ones did not. How about some casting numbers from the water pump? How about a tractor serial number and an engine serial number?

J.Wondergem · Apr 29, 2013

I was going to say the same as John. Poke a thermometer in the radiator and see what temp it really is. Johns idea with the heat gun, you can pin point it.

1961 1800A gas - cooling - still confused

Anonymous-0

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oliver90owner

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