Posted by TheOldHokie on February 02, 2013 at 08:33:32 from (74.110.76.253):
In Reply to: 9N oil pump bushing posted by Bulldozer on February 02, 2013 at 05:43:43:
Bulldozer said: (quoted from post at 09:43:43 02/02/13) When installing the oil pump kit, pressed the split bushing into the hole with a the side hole lined up with the drift hole in the pump housing used for lubrication.
The machine shop used the same machine as used for the rod bushings to ream the split bushing to size for the driver gear. About .01" had to be removed on the wall of the bushing to fit the new pump shaft.
The reamed split bushing hole was not exacly centered and about .003" offset towards the driven gear shaft.
With both gears installed the gear teeth clear the housing, but two teeth have some sliding noticable friction when rotated by hand. The other teeth have no noticable sliding friction.
Hoping the the two teeth will "run in" when the engine is first started.
Agree that a new separate non split silicone bronze bushing drilled, bored and reamed on the lathe is the preferred method, since assured of concentricity.
Toss the the split bushing supplied with the kit.
The manufacturing tolerances on those cheap offshore silicon bronze sleeve bearings are all over the place. If you ream them on a lathe prior to pressing them in the ID will shrink due to the heavy interference fit and the resulting hoop stress in the bearing wall. You won't even be able to fit the shaft into the bushing. Setup on a mill using a coaxial indicator is trivial and I always ream the bushing after it is installed in the housing. Its's the only way that works. :twisted:
TOH
PS> Don't buy cheap import co-ax indicators. This one didn't last much longer than this job - the Blake that replaced it is worth every dollar I paid for it.
This post was edited by TheOldHokie at 08:42:53 02/02/13.
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