Just a regular 2 1/4 inch or so pressure gauge will work fine. Spend a few extra bucks and get a good liquid-filled one and use bushings to thread it into a standard SCV hose tip. Of course the preferred way to check standby pressure is at the priority valve on the RH side of the tractor with a jumper hose and DR quick-connect. The pressure adjustment is at the hydraulic pump itself, so if you're plugged in at the side, you can watch the gauge while you adjust the stroke-control valve instead of needing a helper to watch the gauge at the rear. If you do plug into an SCV, while you're at it, you can check to see if any of your SCVs are leaking up or down. Plug the gauge in like normal with the lever in neutral. If there is pressure at the gauge, the pressure side of the valve is leaking. Stroke the lever to put pressure to the gauge and then return the lever to neutral and if the pressure drops off rapidly, you have a return leak. You'll have to repeat the procedure for both couplers in each SCV since there are two pressure valves and two return valves per SCV.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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