Posted by jleus on August 17, 2013 at 05:11:52 from (107.219.33.43):
I cut and bale for myself, sell a few to cover twine, fuel, and parts. Enjoy making it all work myself therefore am into equipment cheap and see a breakeven point vs buying hay next year (mower, rake, and baler had an initial cost of $1050, tractors would have been here anyway). Thinking about upgrades for next year, winter project and focused on the mower. One problem with the mower is a mixture of guards and some with dull ledgers. I have decent relationship between the sections and the ledgers now but some could be better and believe the problem to be the different guards down the bar. I know about adjusting them but some are not malleable, don't move no matter the force applied.
Saw a Ford sickle for sale one time that had all the guards changed to the double point guards like on a New Holland machine. Anybody ever done this? Any insights or tips. I have the knife bolted, high arch clips, and good wear plates. When I adjusts the hold downs to close the various gaps the knife starts to bind. Believe I need a set of guards that match. Thanks for any tips.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Traction - by Chris Pratt. Our first bout with traction problems came when cultivatin with our Massey-Harris Pony. Up till then, this tractor had been running a corn grinder and pulling a trailer. It had new unfilled rear tires and no wheel weights. The garden was already sprouting when we hooked up the mid-mount shovel cultivators to the Pony. The seed bed was soft enough that the rear end would spin and slowly work its way to the downhill side of the gardens slight incline. From this, we learned our lesson sinc
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