You have plenty of share, they just need to behammered out to sharpen by a good blacksmith, DO NOT gring on them because if you do they will be junk. They have enough nose that they do not need any thing welded on, wil only hurt with the shape they are in. Better health and I could sharpen them. The frame sayling 16 means it is a large frame and could be furnished with either 14" and have the beams set for 14" or 16" furrow or 16" bottoms set for 16" furrows, some also would take that 16" bottom and set to cut 14" thinking they would get a better turn over. Can't see that part to tell is set for 14 or 16" furrow. The tire just go to a tire place and find one that sells the tires for the boat trailers or foldup campers and get one that is too smooth for the highway and it will be perfect on that plow, fact is the size you give says that is what is on now. The orignal was a 3:50 x 12" tapered tread but if you can find that you are talking the price of the plow. The operators manual will tell you how to sharpen those shares. The angle of those moldboard extensions tell me that it is set up to plow shallow 6" to not over 7" if that is a 16" bottom and normal depth for a 16" bottom is figured at 1/2 the width for depth so that is 8", for that deep those extensions would want to keep the plow from going that deep so just loosen the bolts and slide it to angle that it just finnishes rolling the furrow over.
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Today's Featured Article - The Day Mom Drove the 8N - by Brian Browning. My Dad was wanting to put in a garden but couldn't operate the 8N and handle the old horse drawn plow he had found and rigged up to use with the tractor. Well, he decided to go get Mom out of the house and have her drive the tractor while he walked behind the plow. You got to understand that while my Mom is a hard worker who will always help whenever she can... she had never operated farm machinery before that day. Dad got her out there, explained how the clutch was the same as in our o
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