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ndaircapt 01-16-2013 16:47:43 96.3.182.75 Report to Moderator	Hi guys, Heres some pictures of my plow I pulled out of the snowbank today. I started the thread last week on scouring plow bottoms. Its a John Deere 44. It says "No. 16 Frame" on the front. Its clutch lift. What do you think of my shares and landsides? will they work? I know the hitch is set wrong, will get back to that. Will it scour? [Reply]   [No Email]
Mike Aylward 01-18-2013 13:51:31 216.145.134.145 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to ndaircapt, 01-16-2013 16:47:43   Unless you want the plow to be 100% original, when you need shares or other wear parts that would be a good time to convert it to HS bottoms. Get the whole bottom assembly (share, moldboard, shin, frog, etc.) and it will bolt right on your standards with two bolts. Parts will be much easier to find and the plow will also pull easier. With your frame you could use 14" or 16" bottoms by switching the standards front to back. Offset in is 14", offset out is 16". Pretty simple. Mike   [Reply]  [No Email]
Leroy 01-17-2013 11:11:22 69.88.205.38 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to ndaircapt, 01-16-2013 16:47:43   You have plenty of share, they just need to behammered out to sharpen by a good blacksmith, DO NOT gring on them because if you do they will be junk. They have enough nose that they do not need any thing welded on, wil only hurt with the shape they are in. Better health and I could sharpen them. The frame sayling 16 means it is a large frame and could be furnished with either 14" and have the beams set for 14" or 16" furrow or 16" bottoms set for 16" furrows, some also would take that 16" bottom and set to cut 14" thinking they would get a better turn over. Can't see that part to tell is set for 14 or 16" furrow. The tire just go to a tire place and find one that sells the tires for the boat trailers or foldup campers and get one that is too smooth for the highway and it will be perfect on that plow, fact is the size you give says that is what is on now. The orignal was a 3:50 x 12" tapered tread but if you can find that you are talking the price of the plow. The operators manual will tell you how to sharpen those shares. The angle of those moldboard extensions tell me that it is set up to plow shallow 6" to not over 7" if that is a 16" bottom and normal depth for a 16" bottom is figured at 1/2 the width for depth so that is 8", for that deep those extensions would want to keep the plow from going that deep so just loosen the bolts and slide it to angle that it just finnishes rolling the furrow over.   [Reply]  [No Email]
TomA 01-17-2013 00:37:11 76.9.72.88 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to ndaircapt, 01-16-2013 16:47:43   It is hard to tell from those pics but I dont see much suck to those shares. I weld a chunk of springtooth or leaf spring on the points to re point them. Clean the moldboards the best you can, coat them with graphite paint. It will scour right now. When it wears off the moldboards will be shined up. Barnyard tech.   [Reply]  [No Email]
casecollectorsc 01-16-2013 18:50:51 75.102.174.227 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to ndaircapt, 01-16-2013 16:47:43   Center of draft on that 2btm. plow is between the 1st and 2nd bottom. So your hitch should be set so you pull from the center of the two bottoms. Looks like you are more in line with the second bottom.   [Reply]  [No Email]
NDaircapt 01-16-2013 19:02:15 96.3.182.75 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to casecollectorsc, 01-16-2013 18:50:51   I got that out of my previous thread the 17.5" (1 bottom cut plus 1/4 bottom width) from the right facing forward and hitch perpendicular to the crossbar. When I get it home, going to take some pictures with the hitch set and hooked to the tractor to help get plow alignment right. Looking for an operators manual too to help set the plow right. Will have to angle my drawbar as drawbar center to inside of right rear tire in centered position on tractor is 29" (narrow as it goes) on my 60. Also heard about "off hitching" to center the plow. Will cross that bridge when I get to it. Gotta prepare the plow first.   [Reply]  [No Email]
NDaircapt 01-16-2013 19:28:17 96.3.182.75 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to NDaircapt, 01-16-2013 19:02:15   I should clarify, I now know the hitch is set wrong and should be set more like as described above.   [Reply]  [No Email]
Greg K 01-16-2013 18:34:49 75.107.96.58 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to ndaircapt, 01-16-2013 16:47:43   Where do you find the tires for that plow?   [Reply]  [No Email]
NDaircapt 01-16-2013 18:38:55 96.3.182.75 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to Greg K, 01-16-2013 18:34:49   I bought the plow about 5 years ago from a guy and they were on it already. dont know why he "gave up" on this particular plow. paid $225 for it as-is. Now I just need to make it work. Ill look at the tires closer and see if there is a manufacturers stamp on them when I get it home tommorrow.   [Reply]  [No Email]
Brian Dan 01-16-2013 18:32:15 50.76.251.129 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to ndaircapt, 01-16-2013 16:47:43   Wate till spring and find an old gravel pit. plow a couple hundred feet and your plow will be clean. My dad did that all the time back in the day.   [Reply]  [No Email]
NDaircapt 01-16-2013 18:36:04 96.3.182.75 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to Brian Dan, 01-16-2013 18:32:15   Id try that but no gravel nearby :-( have to do it the hard way. got some decent sand in my soil though.   [Reply]  [No Email]
BushogPapa 01-16-2013 17:43:48 173.88.51.117 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to ndaircapt, 01-16-2013 16:47:43   I have GIVEN these Instructions several times and NOT ONE of you have paid any attention.... Get that 4" (or 4 1/2") Angle Grinder out (AND a good dust Mask)... Get some of the Thin "Cut-Off wheels"..you will need about 2 for each plow bottom... HOLD the Cut-off wheel at a low angle..about 30 degrees to the steel surface.. It WILL NOT gouge or even Scratch the steel surface, but will remove the Rust right down to the Black Oxide Under the Rust (and THAT WILL scour nicely)... NOW, you could go back over with a "Flapper Wheel, but you really will NOT need to.. NOW..IF you Listened, you will save many hours of Work and BE Ready to Plow... TRY IT... "NUFF Said.. Ron..   [Reply]  [No Email]
NDaircapt 01-16-2013 17:51:53 96.3.182.75 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to BushogPapa, 01-16-2013 17:43:48   There will be a "pre-scour" cleaning done this winter using combinations of the techniques I got from this post and from the thread a week ago. Thanks Bushhog P.   [Reply]  [No Email]
RayP(MI) 01-16-2013 17:35:02 207.241.137.116 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to ndaircapt, 01-16-2013 16:47:43   Shares and landsides look good should last you a long time only doing a few acres. Spent a lot of time pulling one of those around the fields around here - only ours had a hydraulic lift. Properly adjusted, they were a fine plow.   [Reply]  [No Email]
ndaircapt 01-16-2013 16:53:41 96.3.182.75 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to ndaircapt, 01-16-2013 16:47:43   My questions are: 1. where can I get a reproduction or original operators manual for it besides Deere? any good websites? 2. Do you see any parts missing? 3. Do you think the shares are sufficient to plow 2-3 acres a year? If I get new shares, what am I looking for? 4. See any reason this plow wont work? 5. The tailwheel is a 4.80 - 12. Is it going to be tough to get one? Its flat. How does it come off? 6. Any way of telling what year it is? couldnt find a stamp anywhere yet   [Reply]  [No Email]
Tyler-MO 01-17-2013 06:50:45 50.40.174.43 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to ndaircapt, 01-16-2013 16:53:41   My questions are: 1. where can I get a reproduction or original operators manual for it besides Deere? any good websites? I have good copies (had some made awhile back) for $15. 2. Do you see any parts missing? The front coulter is what looks like an IHC or P&O; not an original JD (not that it matters from a standpoint of using the plow). 3. Do you think the shares are sufficient to plow 2-3 acres a year? If I get new shares, what am I looking for? You've got EP (Sod) plow bottoms. Those shares are going to be more difficult and more expensive to purchase compared to regular General Purpose (NGP) bottoms. 4. See any reason this plow wont work? Aside from adjustment, I can't see why it wouldn't work. The shares don't look like they are perfect, but not completely worn out. 5. The tailwheel is a 4.80 - 12. Is it going to be tough to get one? Its flat. How does it come off? The tail wheel would be a 4.00x12 implement tread tire. Carsyle makes one that is still American made. 6. Any way of telling what year it is? couldnt find a stamp anywhere yet There are not serial number stampings on these plow. Only a forensic exploration with a part catalog might yield a rang of years which it could have been built, but it's very doubtul you'll ever get it down to an exact year of production. Tyler in IL   [Reply]  [No Email]
Plowman 01-16-2013 18:57:02 216.201.49.122 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to ndaircapt, 01-16-2013 16:53:41   I have lots of different plows manuals for sale for plows. Call Steve 419-618-0017 Thanks Plowman   [Reply]  [No Email]
BushogPapa 01-16-2013 17:50:03 173.88.51.117 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to ndaircapt, 01-16-2013 16:53:41   Sometimes it is hard to tell just how much "suck" is left in a used set of Shares.. I like to make new Landslides and leave them about 5" longer than the original on the Front and as long as is room on the rear bottom.. Helps make the slice turn over better and keeps the plow from crowding to the Left in damper ground..(keeps the furrow straighter).. Ron..   [Reply]  [No Email]
NDaircapt 01-16-2013 17:56:09 96.3.182.75 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to BushogPapa, 01-16-2013 17:50:03   Do you have a part # for the shares I might need? I havent looked too much "down low" to see what shape my bolts are in. Will look closer when I get it in the shop this weekend.   [Reply]  [No Email]
BushogPapa 01-16-2013 18:19:28 173.88.51.117 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to NDaircapt, 01-16-2013 17:56:09   No numbers, here..but your shares appear OK..but a picture can be deceiving..some shares were designed to have a greater amount of Suck than others... I have seen a JD 2 Bottom plow go from "going in good", to "won't go in at all" in just a couple of rounds.. Could be the conditions were getting Dryer maybe it was the shares. Some just change over to "High Speed Bottoms", so they can use "Throw-Away" shares..that are much cheaper and easier to find.. Ron..   [Reply]  [No Email]
NDaircapt 01-16-2013 18:29:34 96.3.182.75 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to BushogPapa, 01-16-2013 18:19:28   Good to know.... I read somewhere that high speed bottoms takes a whole different frog?   [Reply]  [No Email]
BushogPapa 01-17-2013 20:30:30 173.88.51.117 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to NDaircapt, 01-16-2013 18:29:34   Yes. Usually, you would purchase a decent used downer plow, for parts.. Ron..   [Reply]  [No Email]
super99 01-16-2013 17:09:47 74.32.242.52 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to ndaircapt, 01-16-2013 16:53:41   The tire is the same as a small trailer tire, it will work for what you want to do. Do you have a 4" hand grinder? I use a flap disc wheel on mine to clean the rust off,(wear a dust mask!!!) get it as shiny as you can, and then grease or paint the shares and bottoms to keep them from rusting. Soak all moving parts excessively until they free up. Chris   [Reply]  [No Email]
NDaircapt 01-16-2013 18:33:42 96.3.182.75 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to super99, 01-16-2013 17:09:47   Thats what appears to be on it right now is a "trailer tire" 4.80 - 12 an Armstrong? Is that tubeless? Does those four bolts just come out and to get off the hub?   [Reply]  [No Email]
NDaircapt 01-16-2013 17:44:04 96.3.182.75 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to super99, 01-16-2013 17:09:47   I have some PB blaster I really like I am going to take after all the fastners once I get it in the shop in case I need to take something apart. planning on "pre scouring" the moldboards too before I try it this spring. trying to prevent a repeat of the dismal try from 3 years ago, hitch miss adjusted, didnt scour, tailwheel trying to jump out of the furrow to the unplowed side.....   [Reply]  [No Email]
ndaircapt 01-16-2013 16:53:10 96.3.182.75 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to ndaircapt, 01-16-2013 16:47:43   How do you tell the difference between a 44 A and 44 B? This post was edited by ndaircapt at 16:57:10 01/16/13 2 times.   [Reply]  [No Email]
CHUCK CAMBIS 01-16-2013 19:16:47 71.128.198.216 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to ndaircapt, 01-16-2013 16:53:10   JD NO. 44 Plow manual OM-A1-1048 Plow is listed as only four types. 44. 44H, 44A, 44AH. The H stands for hydraulic lift. The 44 has fixed tailwheel and transports on front two wheels. 44A has pivoting tailwheel and transports on all three. The drawbars of the two types will have differences. Bought my manual on ebay $25 original and very good condition.   [Reply]  [No Email]
NDaircapt 01-16-2013 19:22:06 96.3.182.75 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to CHUCK CAMBIS, 01-16-2013 19:16:47   I believe mine a straight 44 then. my tailwheel does not pivot, but must be missing something on my drawbar or out of place to "carry" the rear when raised. a spring?   [Reply]  [No Email]
willie in mn 01-16-2013 23:47:16 67.142.168.24 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to NDaircapt, 01-16-2013 19:22:06   That 3/4 or 1 in rod about 3 ft long that is holding the hitch up in the pic is what carries the rear of the plow. The way it sits in the pic, adjust that rod to hold front of hitch 6 in or so higher than the tractor drawbar. Use that as a starting point, adjust as needed after you get the plow in the ground. When in the ground the tailwheel carries the load, there should be some slack in that rod on the hitch. Hooking up to tractor involves pushing down on hitch with your knee, lifting the tailwheel. It has been over 50 years since Dad died & I left the farm, but IIRC, in transport position the tailwheel rides a foot or so above the ground. Willie   [Reply]  [No Email]
NDaircapt 01-17-2013 04:53:59 96.3.182.75 Report to Moderator	Re: Getting my plow going part 2 in reply to willie in mn, 01-16-2013 23:47:16   Good to know! Thanks!   [Reply]  [No Email]