Yes, a Model N engine will bolt to the Model F, but it is not that simple. First from the pictures in your earlier post, the F is a late 1925/early 1926 and is indeed very original. I can even see the original style rolled fuel line with a seam! I can tell the year by a couple features, Mag kill switch on dash, flush plug head w/o bosses for plug wire holder, Holley 295, Rolled lip front wheels, Rear wheels drilled for both left and right cleats. A few main problems/issues to install the N engine. First, if you intend to use the N head and water pump, you should also use the N radiator or at least the side castings, as the N fan is in a different location and the cutouts in the radiator sides are different. You could use the F radiator if you use the F head on the N motor w/o the water pump, but the '25/'26 head does not match the water oppenings of the N block exactly. I have seen them used but they can leak. A '27/'28 F head (p/n F133C or F133D) will match the N block exactly. Second you will need to use the N style front cover as it is made for the Mag and governor. If this is the English N front cover with the bolt pattern for the rowcrop pedistal, you can use you F front axle, If it is the Irish/English N front cover with the long axle support, you will need the dipped Irish front axle to keep the tractor level. Third, because the N engine has the 'dropped' manifold ports, the throttle linkage will not line up with the hole in the '25/'26 F dash. A '27/'28 F dash will work as these were also dropped port engine, but with the F dash you can not use the N governor without cutting a hole in the dash for the pull style throttle. If you have an Irish N dash this will also work and allow the use of the N governor. An english N dash has a long steering column, and would require the rear seating position and also the English rear housing with the clutch behind the axle. This is all probally very confusing, but what I am trying to get at, is it complicated, and unless you been around these fordsons for years, you will run into some problems with this swap. This all being said if I was buying these 2 tractors (Complete non-running F, good N motor) this is what I would do. Take the Good N internals and put them in the F block. The N valves are a larger stem size which would alow the F guides to be opened up, and the N pistons are an 1/8" bigger bore which would allow a rusted block to be rebored and cleaned up. I would even use the N Crank and Rods if they were in nicer shape. In the end you would have an original looking tractor that is worth more than a 'half-breed' F/N. Good luck, if you have any questions let me know. -Steve
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Noises - by Curtis Von Fange. Listening To Your Tractor : Part 3 - In this series we are continuing to learn the fine art of listening to our tractor in hopes of keeping it running longer. One particularly important facet is to hear and identify the particular noises that our
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