If the starter is good (rebuilt right) and all the cables n grounds n connections are good (what you indicated) ID GUESS A SWITCH PROBLEM......... Try using jumper cables to jump around by passing the switch (IF its where you can get at it and a push type pedestal series switch NOT a saddle mount on starter)........
With a Volt meter with one lead to frame, there should be hot battery voltage on the input side of switch (from battery) and, of course, with switch depressed then and only then voltage on output side of switch to starter. An OHM Meter will show near 0 ohms on starter post.
If when you depress the switch the lights dont dim way down nor battery voltage drop much Id suspect the switch may have a problem, but if the lights dim way down and battery voltage drops drastically, Id say the switch is good but theres a starter electrical or mechanical (stuck jammed to flywheels ring gear) problem.
Those big copper lookin contacts inside a start switch can get all burned carboned and pitted and fail pretty easy. If its a saddle mount direct on starter switch remove it and the big copper post on starter can get burned carboned pitted and worn down too low. I have seen cases where the mechanical push down linkage to a saddle mount on starter switch isnt right so the plunger dont get pushed all the way down as it needs.
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Today's Featured Article - Gatherin of the Orange - by Rick Nikolich. In July of 1998 I was talking to fellow Allis Chalmers collector Mike Schilling about the annual "Gathering of The Orange" AC show coming up in August of 1999. He got this wild idea that we should get a convoy of AC tractors and drive them from Charlotte, Michigan 105 miles to LaGrange, Indiana.
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