This is a simple test. Drop the pan, remove the oil pressure sender,connect pressure lube to fitting in block where you removed sender,force pressurized oil through fitting into block,and watch to see where the biggest stream of oil is coming from. If it is a really bad leak you won't even need a pressure lube. Before I had one I used air pressure and watched for the first spurt of oil before the air forced all the oil out of the system. A normal system will have drips coming from all bearings if the clearances are correct. Any area where a stream of oil is running out is a problem area. Set the oil pan under the engine to catch the drips. I made my own pressure lube system from a small spray tank.I removed the nozzle from the hand wand and threaded it right into the block,they were both 1/8 inch pipe threads. I then put about a gallon of engine oil in the tank and pressurized the tank. All you have to do then is squeze the hand valve on the wand and watch the oil drip down from the engine. It isn't any more work than spraying your lawn for dandylions. This is a fool proof method for locating the source of low oil pressure plus it lubricates the whole engine and you will have no dry start ups. Stop guessing where the problem is and do this test. This is like a CAT-Scan for engines Chuck
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1951 Farmall H - by The Red (John Fritz). I have been a collector of Farmall tractors since 1990 when I first obtained part of the family farm in Eastern Indiana. My current collection includes a 1938 F20, 1945 H, 1946 H, and the recently purchased 1951 H. This article will focus on what I encountered and what I did to bring the 1951 NEAR DEATH Farmall H back to life.
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