There are no "umbrella" seals on an 806 Roosa Master pump shaft. The pump adaptor housing has two lip type seals in it, one facing each way. The only other seal in an O-ring. The pump drive shaft as well as the driven plate inside the pump are marked with a dimple. As long as the pump is reassembled back on the shaft with the marks aligned the ump will be in time with the camshaft.
When I remove the pump on an 806 I remove the the insulator bracket from the injection lines so that I can separate them enough to slide the pump back between them. You will most likely need to replace the insulator pads so that the line do not touch the metal of the bracket. Vibration will wear a hole in them if they are not kept from metal to metal contact.
If the throttle arm is not wired back when the pump is removed it is not a big deal. Just make sure that the ends of the governor lever are back in the slots of the bushing and wire the arm back as you go to install the pump.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1951 Farmall H - by The Red (John Fritz). I have been a collector of Farmall tractors since 1990 when I first obtained part of the family farm in Eastern Indiana. My current collection includes a 1938 F20, 1945 H, 1946 H, and the recently purchased 1951 H. This article will focus on what I encountered and what I did to bring the 1951 NEAR DEATH Farmall H back to life.
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