See if the Crank is not needing ground (probably not) and see if the engine Block will need "Pinned". That would usually only be if there is a crack in the lower web, between cylinder # 1&2.. The usually rebuilt kit has 1/8" larger bores (4 1/8") and you should have a choice of a couple compression ratios.. I chose the early D-17 rebuild kit, with 7.4:1 Compression and it has worked well for nearly 30 years..! I did eventually change over to 12 Volt, as 6 is marginal..usually would only turn it over ONE cylinder at a time... Rebuilding is straight forward..get all the dirt out of the "O-Ring" area of the sleeve/Block location and use plenty Permatex #2 Non-hardening sealer when installing the sleeves.. Have the surfaces that face the Head Gasket VERY Clean and expect to see some seepage out the spark-plug side for a short while.. The plate between the rear 2 Head Bolts can leak and need attention, if you are not lucky the 1st time.. I like to use Hardened Bolts of the correct length, with Hardened washers to mount the Int/Exh manifold.. I rub "Hi-Temp" Silicone into the asbestos gasket material (white rings) and let it hold the gaskets and metal caps in place on the manifold tubes, while I slide the assembly in place..I feel it makes the gaskets last longer, too.. I have used 318 valve retainers to increase valve spring pressure and they worked well.. Increased seat pressure will help prevent burned valves.. DO re-use the "Cir-Clips" on the valve stems..above the valve seals...(you are going to install Umbrella-type valve seals, arent you)..!!
Spend the time to Verify the clearances on the Main and rod bearings, while you are installing them.. When you remove that last pair of shims and it tightens up, put that pair back in and you KNOW it is correct.. These are not hard to over-haul and they WILL out-last YOU..!!! Find an original "Nelson" Muffler, so it Sounds RIGHT, while you are at it..!! Ron..
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