If your trailer is kicking as you say I would check a few things: Correct ball size? (Very important as there is a lot of play between 2" ball and a 2 5/16" Coupler not to mention dangerous as all get out.) Trailer brakes adjusted and working correctly? Surge Brakes or Electric? If surge there is not a whole lot you can do to adjust them. If electric what controller are you using? A good controller will have a boost function to give a bit of additional braking as soon as you touch the pedal. This keeps the hitch under tension and not kicking you as you stop. The trailer should be stopping its self as well as doing part of the truck braking; once again keeping things stretched out with no slack on stop or start up. No slack no kick. Light tongue weight is not that unusual with a tandem axle trailer you may find that you have to have a high hitch or have ballast on the trailer when empty to stop the bouncing of the hitch when pulling it empty.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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