If your trailer is kicking as you say I would check a few things: Correct ball size? (Very important as there is a lot of play between 2" ball and a 2 5/16" Coupler not to mention dangerous as all get out.) Trailer brakes adjusted and working correctly? Surge Brakes or Electric? If surge there is not a whole lot you can do to adjust them. If electric what controller are you using? A good controller will have a boost function to give a bit of additional braking as soon as you touch the pedal. This keeps the hitch under tension and not kicking you as you stop. The trailer should be stopping its self as well as doing part of the truck braking; once again keeping things stretched out with no slack on stop or start up. No slack no kick. Light tongue weight is not that unusual with a tandem axle trailer you may find that you have to have a high hitch or have ballast on the trailer when empty to stop the bouncing of the hitch when pulling it empty.
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Today's Featured Article - Grain Threshing in the Early 40's - by Jerry D. Coleman. How many of you can sit there and say that you have plowed with a mule? Well I would say not many, but maybe a few. This story is about the day my Grandfather Brown (true name) decided along with my parents to purchase a new Ford tractor. It wasn't really new except to us. The year was about 1967 and my father found a good used Ford 601 tractor to use on the farm instead of "Bob", our old mule. Now my grandfather had had this mule since the mid 40's and he was getting some age on him. S
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1965 International Harvester McCormick Farmall cub tractor 2,500. Two owner tractor. My grandfather bought new in 1966, then we inherited it. Have all the paperwork original manual and all maintenance records. It starts and moves. Comes with underbelly mower, plough, and some other attachments.
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