Your pistons should be cam ground, which means their largest diameter is opposite the pins. That area is also major and minor thrust for the combustion event. While I cannot see the depth of the scoring; cold start hard running (not letting it warm up) and/or overheating can cause this. This is probly not the source of the noise. I assume the noise was at crank speed? I also assume you didn't see copper on any of the bearings, but did you plastigage the mains and rods? Tedious yes, but you need to know on start-up if the knock will be gone. The wrist pins can't be too loose. Lightly oiled, you should not feel any looseness as you rock the rod in the piston. Did you check the flywheel for looseness? Did you check for adequate oil pressure cold and hot? And was the knock deep sounding or a rap on acceleration. How the knock sounded would give you a lot of information. Since a shop ruled out injectors could it be carbon. They can give a rod type knock. Stick to your evidence. Hope this helps. Gerard
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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