It's an electric pump, just more HD. Often used in HD truck applications and diesel boats. The OEM pump you have now is a a rotary-high-speed electric pump. The Walbro is a low-speed diaphram-type pump. I know it's been tested for endurance and greatly outlasts the rotary pumps. It is rated for a life of 18,000 hours under constant running, and it does not run all the time in a car or truck. That equates to around 1,000,000 road miles. Also has a removeable fuel-screen in it. I paid $130 for the last one I got.
http://www.fuel-pumps.net/frb51.html
I'm not saying the pump is your problem, though. When you get air at the filter, it means your pump is sucking air from somewhere. A bad pump can suck air from itself, and a questionable pump can work OK until the intake line or strainer gets plugged - and that pump will leak and draw air.
If you live in a winter-road-salt area, you might have a broken or rusted intake line on top of the fuel-tank.
I've got a 92 diesel Suburban sitting here that pumps air no matter what I do - if I use the fuel tank that's in it. I'm stripping it anyway, so I stuck a 5 gallon out-board motor tank in the back, and have it hooked with a rubber hose to the engine. Runs fine that way. Obviously there is break or rust-hole in the intake line on top of the tank somewhere.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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