That really isn't the way in-floor heat works in a slab in a northern climate - I'm in Minnesota - and I'd be real scared you would get poor results from that sort of mish-mash setup.
The idea is to heat up the slab of concrete, and let it heat things close to the floor, so you don't waste heating the air way up top. A person can feel real warm on a 55-60 degree floor; while you feel real cold in a building that is 65 but all the heat is up in the ceiling, with a cold floor.
Sand is a poor heat tranfer medium, so they don't recomemend that.
Leaving parts of the slab without heaters in it means you have cold spots, which messes up the heat flow & will create downdrafts and just generally mess it all up bad.
Might work in a warmer climate, but I don't see much that would work well in a cold climate?
You want even heat, you want good heat transfer, you want to keep the building cooler than normal but done right it will feel warmer than average, and you dwant it heated all winter long, no turning off for the week, turning on for the weekend.
it's a system, you want the whole chunk of floor to be your heat sink, you want the heat to lightly rise striaght up, and you don't want heat to bleed off to the outside of the building - out the sides of the slab or foundation. Isulation is critical there, not really so terrible important below - heat loss down will not be bad, but it is terrible off to the sides.
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Today's Featured Article - The Fordson F Ignition System - by Anthony West. A fellow restorer contacted me earlier this year asking for some help and advice on a model F that he was restoring. He had over a period of months spent a fair amount of his hard earned cash on replacement parts for the old "trembler" ignition. Sadly though all his efforts seemed to be a waste of time and money as he still couldn''t get the temperamental old thing to run correctly!! If i said that this was a little frustrating for him that would be "conservative" in fact the problem had reduce
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