Posted by Dave in GA on February 22, 2010 at 07:55:56 from (163.246.18.120):
I'm finally getting around to overhauling the brakes on my 1965 IHC 1-ton 4x4. The lines and hoses are good from the previous owner, but the master and front wheel cylinders are shot with rust and corrosion, and DOT 3 fluid leaking all over. The rear wheel cylinders are still decent. I am sending the master and front cylinders to a shop in Minneapolis to have them rebuilt and have stainless steel sleeves installed. After I put everything back on the truck, I want to flush the lines, hoses, and rear cylinders and fill the system with synthetic fluid instead. I've never used synthetic, but I've heard from others that it will solve a lot of the rust and "water attraction" problem that DOT 3 fluid is known for, and the whole brake system with last longer and maybe save some lives. Is synthetic the way to go with this brake job? If so, is it critical to get every last drop of DOT 3 out of the system before filling with synthetic?
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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